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Problem with heel..
- Thread starter jfdupuis
- Start Date
mysteryrazor
Well-Known Member
Can you see what is going on with a loupe? I some times swipe the blade back and forth a few strokes till I see the shine extend to the heal. But that is if the area is not pitted. There are so many reasons why an area is not coming sharp. The form of the heal is complicated by the stabilizer. Are you hitting the stabilizer with the hone? On the GD's I sometimes have to re-radius the heal so the hone will clear and then I can bring that area sharp.
garyhaywood
Well-Known Member
just work on the toe . do another dilucot on toe only then finish whole blade on water strokes
Bart
Well-Known Member
I second that. There's nothing wrong with doing a bit of localized work on a part of the blade that stayed a bit behind. A few dilutions, starting at a thin slurry, may be all that's needed. Do keep an eye on the edge curvature. Unless you are honing out chips or frowns, there is never a need to visually reduce the width of blade during a sharpening job.garyhaywood said:
Just run the Coticule a couple of times with a slurry stone, place your finger on top to the toe or heel (whatever part is was that stayed behind) and make a few sets of halfstrokes, while diluting. Only aim them at the particular blade part. Finalize the effort with halfstrokes on clear water, performed at the full length of the blade. Finish with X-strokes, in your normal fashion.
Kind regards,
Bart.
Hey guys,
Success! Here is what I did. Took the razor to my DMT 1200 for some bevel work and extra attention to the heel (sorry about my confusing post
) After a while I could feel using the TPT test that the entire edge was sticky, and sticky to the same extent. I then went to my coticule with heavy slurry. I then checked under the light and the entire edge appeared nice and shinny. I then used very light slurry. After that I added some tape and went for my normal unicot method (I haven't really had the patience or chance to fully experiment with that method, but I know that one of my coticules is probably not a good candidate as it's more of a polisher). I shaved with the razor this morning (a fily #13 DT) and it gave me a very nice comfortable shave!
here are some of the razors I have coming in the next few weeks.
_ H. Diamond #1000
- Vintage INox 7/8 Friodur
- 1/4 Hollow W&B Razor with rescale and restoration from MAX
- 7/8 Full Hollow Super Doll razor (Japanese brand)
- Kanayama 30k
I have a feeling December is going to be a good shaving month
Cheers!
JF
Success! Here is what I did. Took the razor to my DMT 1200 for some bevel work and extra attention to the heel (sorry about my confusing post
) After a while I could feel using the TPT test that the entire edge was sticky, and sticky to the same extent. I then went to my coticule with heavy slurry. I then checked under the light and the entire edge appeared nice and shinny. I then used very light slurry. After that I added some tape and went for my normal unicot method (I haven't really had the patience or chance to fully experiment with that method, but I know that one of my coticules is probably not a good candidate as it's more of a polisher). I shaved with the razor this morning (a fily #13 DT) and it gave me a very nice comfortable shave!here are some of the razors I have coming in the next few weeks.
_ H. Diamond #1000
- Vintage INox 7/8 Friodur
- 1/4 Hollow W&B Razor with rescale and restoration from MAX
- 7/8 Full Hollow Super Doll razor (Japanese brand)
- Kanayama 30k
I have a feeling December is going to be a good shaving month
Cheers!
JF