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Puma and DMT

DJKELLY

Well-Known Member
The other day I mentioned to Chris that I thought his 80 strokes on a dmt1200 might have been excessive. I must have been working on easy edges, because I have just finished over four times that many strokes, circular and X, on a Puma I have started to hone. I got it with someone else's "shave ready" edge and have to admit it would catch and pop hair. I have a new digital microscope and it showed a rounded bevel. I am just getting this razor to shave arm hair over part of the bevel. Much more grief and it's going on the Atoma where I should have started. I am just posting this here since I can't easily find Chris' original comment. Sorry, Chris. Saint Denis.
 

Bart

Well-Known Member
Honing out severe convexity can be time-consuming. I don't know what kind of strokes you're using on the DMT, but I've found that halfstrokes also on a DMT work well and greatly reduce the time it takes to remove serious stock. Fast enough to wreck a razor in a very short time.:) I wouldn't make a recommendation for slightly pressured halfstrokes, if I wasn't entirely sure to be addressing someone who knows very well what he's doing when sharpening razors.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 

wdwrx

Well-Known Member
I think the 80 strokes on DMT Denny's referring to is address the damage i did to my Joseph Haywood. (I'm still kicking myself about it). I monitored it pretty closely under the scope and stopped as soon as I could. I really only used light torquey x-strokes. I'd estimate the total less at approaching about 1/3 mm in width.
I gave careful consideration to using tape, but opted out of it as a philosophical choice in an effort to maintain the bevel angle.

I've only worked minimally with my Puma, but it struck me as being very hard steel, FWIW: just a vague impression. The steel in the J.Haywood gives an impression of being a tad softer....
Anyhow, your struggle puts me in mind of an article I've read that referred to the different effects of corrosion. I thought I had a bookmark of it , i'll see if I can find it, wether it's pertinent or not, I can't say.
 

tat2Ralfy

Well-Known Member
I would have used tape Chris. Then after correcting the bevel I would have dulled on glass and set the bevel on a Coticule, I never go from a 1k synthetic to the Coticule without the pre dulling, as I find it totally gets rid of any chance of microchipping, the tape would have helped keep the lap count down slightly on the 1k, and a couple sets of half strokes on the Coticule would soon correct the slightly increased bevel angle.

That's they way I do it, when I have a precious or hard blade that needs some work

Regards
Ralfson (Dr)
 

DJKELLY

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Bart. I only use light, fast half strokes or circles on the dmt and have seen what it can do. The steel in this razor is very hard and "skips" over the surface of the stone if you don't apply the right amount of pressure. I usually use an old trick of feeling for a very small burr before changing sides, but this razor is a nice one and I was a bit slower with setting the bevel and I did use tape to increase the angle and get to the edge quicker as Inky does, but I don't normally predull a dmt1200 edge. I haven't had a chipping problem yet, but if I do, I will remember my good friends advice.

The real reason for this post was not for help, though I could use it, but to apologize to Chris for my seemily arrogant previous statement. Sometimes when you think you have an answer (when I say you, I mean me--The Grinch) it is too easy to see fault in someone else. I hate when I do that, and for chiming in too early, Chris, I am honestly sorry. Denny
 

wdwrx

Well-Known Member
DJKELLY said:
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:blink: :blink:
I'm baffled that you feel you have anything to apologize for, Saint Denny.
But, now you've got me second-guessing myself, wondering if I come across as a defensive prick. Dammit, if you are going to apologize for anything, it should be that!:D :D
 

DJKELLY

Well-Known Member
I'm baffled that you feel you have anything to apologize for, Saint Denny.
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That's because you know me a bit, Chris. It started with me in a pm you sent that referred to me as "sensei" basically. I am sure you have many of the same skills as I, and many more of your own besides. And, no, you have never come across as sensitive or defensive at all.

Your friend, D
 

deighaingeal

Well-Known Member
Chris, if you keep petting his ego his head might pop. You've seen his picture lately, could you imagine how big it has gotten since then?
 

DJKELLY

Well-Known Member
Writing name down on scrap paper. Memorizing, memorizing. Nope, won't work. No bike for you, Gerrit. Van Comer will have to wait.
 

wdwrx

Well-Known Member
you're right Gerrit.... Pilots have no shortage of ego at the best of times!

hey Denny, you get that Puma shaving yet?
 

DJKELLY

Well-Known Member
Yep. After getting bevel set on the dmt, it is a very short process to get it shave ready on.....guess what..........YOUR VINTAGE, bwahahaha. I tried it tonight and it was a very very nice shave. I tried something else with twice the normal 80-100 strokes on leather. It seemed to keep refining more and more. Like all razors with hard steel, it was a little brisker than a Cmon, but it was completely comfortable and efficient. I like it. It did take some work to get rid of that pasted strop bevel and the scope was helpful (only helpful) in seeing that immediately. D
 

kessel113

Well-Known Member
I've been looking and reading a lot in the forum,and i think this would be the best thread to ask...

I just bought a DMT dia sharp 600 to set bevel on my razors.

1) DMT dia sharp vs DMT wich one is best to set bevels.

2) how to set a bevel on a DMT dia sharp.

Thanks Gents for the info.

Best regards
adri
 

Bart

Well-Known Member
The diasharp is the DMT with the continuous surface. They work well with razors ( so do the DMTs with the holes in the surface). However, every new DMT needs to be carefully broken is, before you can use it on razors. If this is neglected, the DMT will chip the delicate edge of a razor. A very effective way to achieve this, is to take a Coticule slurry stone, moisten the DMT, rub a good slurry on it ,and work the slurry with a flat piece of steel (like the flat part of a chisel, or a cabinet scraper) rubbing it on the surface for a couple minutes. Clean the DMT under a running tap and done.

Should you have a Coficule in need of lapping, that woud achieve the same. Note that a DMT600 should nor be used for lapping, more than this once just ot break it in.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 

kessel113

Well-Known Member
Thanks Bart

Great info as i'm totally new to honing in general, will do as prescribed.

Now, how can i set a bevel whit the DMT... i've read i have to tape the spine of the razor to protect it...so it wont remove any steal...

Can you or anyone point me to the right thread if theres one out there.

I've also search on youtube but dint find nothing whit "razor bevel setting on a DMT".

Thanks
Best regards
 

kessel113

Well-Known Member
Thanks Bart

Great info as i'm totally new to honing in general, will do as prescribed.

Now, how can i set a bevel whit the DMT... i've read i have to tape the spine of the razor to protect it...so it wont remove any steal...

Can you or anyone point me to the right thread if theres one out there.

I've also search on youtube but dint find nothing whit "razor bevel setting on a DMT".

Thanks
Best regards
 
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