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Joseph Rodgers restoration
- Thread starter Salmo
- Start Date
Pithor
Well-Known Member
Salmo said:
I have some horn plates laying around for three big scale-less wedges, all I need is some good wedge material.
I'd love lead (or pewter for that matter, probably slightly easier to work with) but how on earth would I shape lead into a wedge?
I was also considering making the wedge out of the horn or something that has a bone/ivoryish look, but I really love the look of lead, and the blades are HEAVY so lead would balance it out nicely I reckon.
decraew
Well-Known Member
Pithor said:
I've asked myself the same question. If the lead you have is pretty thin to start with, I think (some) good smack(s) with a hammer on a hard surface should suffice to make it a wedge - lead is pretty soft aftera all. Then an ordinary hobby iron saw to cut out the contours.
A lead wedge doesn't suffice to counter the weight of a heavy wedge blade, by the way.
torbenbp
Well-Known Member
Lead is easily shaped with common tools..a hammer,sanding paper etc.
If you got a raw piece of lead a good banging with a hammer (or actually quite a lot of banging) relatively easily gets you to the desired thickness...
Then you can treat it almost a wood..you can cut it,sand it etc. It aint good for your health though so I suggest using rubber gloves and some kind of respiratory protection. Then again,as I kid I melted a lot of lead..and I surely do not suffer from any ill effects...:scared: :blink: :cry:
regards
And if I could remember my name I`d use it in the signature ?
If you got a raw piece of lead a good banging with a hammer (or actually quite a lot of banging) relatively easily gets you to the desired thickness...
Then you can treat it almost a wood..you can cut it,sand it etc. It aint good for your health though so I suggest using rubber gloves and some kind of respiratory protection. Then again,as I kid I melted a lot of lead..and I surely do not suffer from any ill effects...:scared: :blink: :cry:
regards
And if I could remember my name I`d use it in the signature ?
TM280
Well-Known Member
Hi Pieter,
Here's some pewter in your neck of the woods: https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=index&cPath=159_182.
They have 2 mm, which should work for that classic look. Cut with a jeweler's saw and form with small files.
I like to use nickel, and you can get it in thicker pieces...
regards,
Torolf
Here's some pewter in your neck of the woods: https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=index&cPath=159_182.
They have 2 mm, which should work for that classic look. Cut with a jeweler's saw and form with small files.
I like to use nickel, and you can get it in thicker pieces...
regards,
Torolf
Toff
Well-Known Member
Hi Pieter,
For pewter, there also is the option of using, mid century, tableware/hollow ware that has no intrinsic value. Pewter bends easily in the hands. I melt it with a propane hand torch into a flat bottomed stainless steel measuring cup. I hold the cup at a slight angle to make a bit of a wedge shape when the pewter/lead is hardened. Old pewter does have lead in it. A plumbers' supply may have non-lead low temperature solder. I did find some non-lead pewter at a craft store. It is as hard as brass and does not hammer worth beans.
Torbs' info is valid and so is TM280
Cheers
~Rihcard
For pewter, there also is the option of using, mid century, tableware/hollow ware that has no intrinsic value. Pewter bends easily in the hands. I melt it with a propane hand torch into a flat bottomed stainless steel measuring cup. I hold the cup at a slight angle to make a bit of a wedge shape when the pewter/lead is hardened. Old pewter does have lead in it. A plumbers' supply may have non-lead low temperature solder. I did find some non-lead pewter at a craft store. It is as hard as brass and does not hammer worth beans.
Torbs' info is valid and so is TM280
Cheers
~Rihcard
Pithor
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, exactly what I needed.
And Torolf, I hadn't found that website yet. I'm not planning on making scales very often, but if I do that is a very valuable source for material, what I can see at decent prices. Although they have the shipping set at €10 minimum, so buying single small items doesn't pay off.
EDIT: I found a ~2mm thick lead slab (~2,5x6 cm), M1 (inside) washers, M2 nuts and screws at a local model/hobby store, together around €10. I got the M2 bolts & nuts because I didn't want to hunt down brass tubing for the big wedges. M2 fits perfectly, and I can just crimp off the heads of the screws (they have slits, so that'll look just stupid), put on the nuts, file them round(ish). Screws are brass, bolts are stainless steel, I thought mixing colours would look cool. I can always go back and get brass nuts, but they were twice the price of the stainless steel ones. So, wish me luck, although it doesn't look I'll make them anytime soon. Plus I still have to clean off the razors. I say 2015
And Torolf, I hadn't found that website yet. I'm not planning on making scales very often, but if I do that is a very valuable source for material, what I can see at decent prices. Although they have the shipping set at €10 minimum, so buying single small items doesn't pay off.
EDIT: I found a ~2mm thick lead slab (~2,5x6 cm), M1 (inside) washers, M2 nuts and screws at a local model/hobby store, together around €10. I got the M2 bolts & nuts because I didn't want to hunt down brass tubing for the big wedges. M2 fits perfectly, and I can just crimp off the heads of the screws (they have slits, so that'll look just stupid), put on the nuts, file them round(ish). Screws are brass, bolts are stainless steel, I thought mixing colours would look cool. I can always go back and get brass nuts, but they were twice the price of the stainless steel ones. So, wish me luck, although it doesn't look I'll make them anytime soon. Plus I still have to clean off the razors. I say 2015