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angle calculation
- Thread starter medic484
- Start Date
medic484 said:
Please don't take this the wrong way. This issue of angles and calculations is way beyond your current honing level. Trying to use this information at this stage of the game will only inhibit your progress. The reality is, after you have the ability to consistantly sharpen DIFFERENT razors you might want to know about this. In my case, I just know when I need to add an additional piece of tape. This is not rocket science so don't make it complicated.
Again, this is not to criticise you, but just to let you know it isn't necessary to let this clutter your mind at this point.
That's just my personal opinion.
Ray
tat2Ralfy
Well-Known Member
well I swear by it, and if I have even a full hollow thats got a little hone wear, I measure it up and enter the values just to see how its going to work out, I now have full hollows that need a layer of tape to hit the correct bevel angle, and its my opinion that getting the angle right results in better shave for sure.
Oh yeah and my tape is 0.11 mm thick, its hard to measure so I doubled it over so it sticks to itself and used my digital calipers then divided the reading by 2.
Oh yeah and my tape is 0.11 mm thick, its hard to measure so I doubled it over so it sticks to itself and used my digital calipers then divided the reading by 2.
Bart
Well-Known Member
Actually Ralfy,
fold the tape 10-ways, measure and divide by ten. It'll improve the accuracy by much and you only need to do it once, unless you change to another brand of tape.
As far as the calculator itself is concerned, it's really no rocket science. Just measure the spine thickness, and the width of the blade from the very edge till the boundary of the hone-wear on the spine. (as shown on the picture in the calculator). Just enter your data and the calculator does the rest. For a Unicot edge, start out with the ideal amount of tape minus one layer. Add the final layer for the creation of the secondary bevel. That way, a wedge hones up just as easily as any other razor. Bevel correction could take a bit longer, and most wedges carry a smile, so you need to know how to deal with that.
Best regards,
Bart.
fold the tape 10-ways, measure and divide by ten. It'll improve the accuracy by much and you only need to do it once, unless you change to another brand of tape.
As far as the calculator itself is concerned, it's really no rocket science. Just measure the spine thickness, and the width of the blade from the very edge till the boundary of the hone-wear on the spine. (as shown on the picture in the calculator). Just enter your data and the calculator does the rest. For a Unicot edge, start out with the ideal amount of tape minus one layer. Add the final layer for the creation of the secondary bevel. That way, a wedge hones up just as easily as any other razor. Bevel correction could take a bit longer, and most wedges carry a smile, so you need to know how to deal with that.
Best regards,
Bart.
Bart
Well-Known Member
You can swear all you like, type words like "fuck" and "cunt" on this forum. But if you ever again hide a bloody thanks button in your posts. I'll come over and personally lube your keyboard with lather and shove it up your ass. 
Now about bevel angles.
Each time I have encountered a brittle edge, that had difficulties coping with the impact of my beard, increasing the bevel angle helped. On wedges, with their large bevels (and often low angles) I just want to know how much tape I can use for the benefits of a narrower bevel. It's prettier easier to hone, and as said, slightly less prone to chip.
I've shaved with an overly obtuse bevel twice. First off, the obtuser the bevel, the keener it needs to be for the same performance. But even so, too obtuse pulls at the whiskers. Notably (an this may surprise you) during the "with-the-grain" pass. That happens because you can't use a low shaving angle, because the obtuser cutting wedge adds a few degrees of its own to you shaving angle WTG, which makes the razor easily skate over the hairs. So you need to keep the shaving angle higher, but that wider bevel penetrating it's way in between two hair cells, will demand more force Not as much as that keyboard, but you'll feel it anyway. Obtuse bevels pull. Against The Grain you can maintain a very shallow shaving angle, because the razor is caught between the whisker and the skin, and has no choice but to clip it close to the skin. The force is better aimed to enter between the hair cells, the pulling sensation will be less. If you ever have a razor that pulls WTG and shaves reasonably ATG, do check the bevel angle.
In theory, the biggest bevel angle that still shaves you well, would be the most durable. Of course, fine-tuning the angle means that you have to fumble with tape and keep some kind of record. On average, it seems that razor makers agree that 17 degrees is about right. But right for who? For someone who can't get a blade keen enough to preform well at 20 degrees? For someone with a soft beard, that doesn't demand much from the razor's steel? If you have a small collection of personal razors, it can be a lot of fun to bring them all to a performance that completely suits your beard and shaving habits. Playing with bevel angles has its influence in that field. Probably more than a zillion posts about different finishing hones.
Kind regards,
Bart.
Now about bevel angles.
Each time I have encountered a brittle edge, that had difficulties coping with the impact of my beard, increasing the bevel angle helped. On wedges, with their large bevels (and often low angles) I just want to know how much tape I can use for the benefits of a narrower bevel. It's prettier easier to hone, and as said, slightly less prone to chip.
I've shaved with an overly obtuse bevel twice. First off, the obtuser the bevel, the keener it needs to be for the same performance. But even so, too obtuse pulls at the whiskers. Notably (an this may surprise you) during the "with-the-grain" pass. That happens because you can't use a low shaving angle, because the obtuser cutting wedge adds a few degrees of its own to you shaving angle WTG, which makes the razor easily skate over the hairs. So you need to keep the shaving angle higher, but that wider bevel penetrating it's way in between two hair cells, will demand more force Not as much as that keyboard, but you'll feel it anyway. Obtuse bevels pull. Against The Grain you can maintain a very shallow shaving angle, because the razor is caught between the whisker and the skin, and has no choice but to clip it close to the skin. The force is better aimed to enter between the hair cells, the pulling sensation will be less. If you ever have a razor that pulls WTG and shaves reasonably ATG, do check the bevel angle.
In theory, the biggest bevel angle that still shaves you well, would be the most durable. Of course, fine-tuning the angle means that you have to fumble with tape and keep some kind of record. On average, it seems that razor makers agree that 17 degrees is about right. But right for who? For someone who can't get a blade keen enough to preform well at 20 degrees? For someone with a soft beard, that doesn't demand much from the razor's steel? If you have a small collection of personal razors, it can be a lot of fun to bring them all to a performance that completely suits your beard and shaving habits. Playing with bevel angles has its influence in that field. Probably more than a zillion posts about different finishing hones.
Kind regards,
Bart.
: 
Smythe
Well-Known Member
I must be as dumb as a bat… I actually clicked the damn thing and wondered why nothing happened.Bart said:You can swear all you like, type words like "fuck" and "cunt" on this forum. But if you ever again hide a bloody thanks button in your posts. I'll come over and personally lube your keyboard with lather and shove it up your ass.
Bart.