Any Coti honing problems??

[torbenbp]

yeahhh...that is damn well done Ralfy:thumbup:

I work (in my free time) as a volunter at place with drunks,addicts of all kinds. etc.But also peoble with need of a social network.
Were there this morning too ..and it`s really sad to see peoble totally out of their wits at 11.00 o`clock. There were this couple-addicts- and damn ..what the hell can anyone do?? absolutely nothing..besides talking and drinking cofee.

If the do not want to stop,cant stop or are not getting help..well they are simply f....d..
A complex situation,as many also are deeply involved in criminality...dope needs funding! and by no means am I reffering to the honorable Dr. Ralphson.

Out of thread..but you really did something Ralfy....keep on doing that my friend.Congrats Ralfy.

 

[garyhaywood]

Hi guys,
Back to topic guy's, I just inherited four razor's and their cobwebs. I have managed to get three shaving comfortably (wostenholm, gong , Nodzu electric razor). I Honed all three using no 18 to set the bevel, then progressed to BBW to get keenness finished on 18. The fourth one though, a G myers is a lovely happy smiling lady that is getting under my skin. I am struggling to get the bevel set right. I have read the razor sharpening strokes especially on rolling x stroke. this just a matter of patience and perseverance to learn the technique, any tip's much appreciated.

many thanks Michael

2 tips:
1. Don't be tempted to raise the slurry too thick: certainly not denser than coffee cream.
2. Don't be afraid of using halfstrokes that only concentrate on part of the edge. If the heel part stays behind, work on the heel part, if the toe part stays behind, work on the toe part, but don't forget it's the high spots that need to be brought down to sharpen an edge and keep an eye on the shape of the edge.

Best regards,
Bart.

Bart whilst doing half strokes if the heal and toe were getting left behind . Would you do just half strokes by placing just the heaal down and working on just the heal ,vice the versa for toe. Or would you do half stroke using the rolling x motion to get the whole edge. I manage to half strokes using a rolling x.

By high spots do you mean high spot along the bevel ,that have to be smoothed out with a even stroke?

 

[Bart]

2 tips:
1. Don't be tempted to raise the slurry too thick: certainly not denser than coffee cream.
2. Don't be afraid of using halfstrokes that only concentrate on part of the edge. If the heel part stays behind, work on the heel part, if the toe part stays behind, work on the toe part, but don't forget it's the high spots that need to be brought down to sharpen an edge and keep an eye on the shape of the edge.

Bart whilst doing half strokes if the heal and toe were getting left behind . Would you do just half strokes by placing just the heaal down and working on just the heal ,vice the versa for toe. Or would you do half stroke using the rolling x motion to get the whole edge. I manage to half strokes using a rolling x.

By high spots do you mean high spot along the bevel ,that have to be smoothed out with a even stroke?

If a blade requires the rolling X, I will also to rolling halfstrokes. But if, upon testing, I notice that only a part is slightly behind, I don't hesitate honing up and down (no diagonal stroke) at that part for a number of strokes. I also do the same if I notice that an edge has the beginning of a frowning curve (introduced by previous honing that was not mine). The bevel on a razor develops slow enough so that you can steer it in the right direction, at least if you're prepared to pay attention while honing.

With "high spots", I mean this: imagine an edge that's keen along it's entire length except a small portion at the middle. Hence you need to remove steel of the bevel faces at the middle of the blade. But you can't reach that steel without also removing adjacent steel that was already keen enough. Or otherwise put with a comparison, you can't sand a dimple out of a tabletop if you're not prepared to sand the rest away.

Kind regards,
Bart.

 

[mrmaroon]

Im still having trouble doing a full coti dilocut. It is hard to dilute the slurry on a 4X2 coticule. If I go to diluted I loose all the slurry, or only can do 1 inch strokes to keep it all on. It there a way around this, or am I doomed to buy more rocks?

 

[garyhaywood]

2 tips:
1. Don't be tempted to raise the slurry too thick: certainly not denser than coffee cream.
2. Don't be afraid of using halfstrokes that only concentrate on part of the edge. If the heel part stays behind, work on the heel part, if the toe part stays behind, work on the toe part, but don't forget it's the high spots that need to be brought down to sharpen an edge and keep an eye on the shape of the edge.

Bart whilst doing half strokes if the heal and toe were getting left behind . Would you do just half strokes by placing just the heaal down and working on just the heal ,vice the versa for toe. Or would you do half stroke using the rolling x motion to get the whole edge. I manage to half strokes using a rolling x.

Bart what i find is when honing i can actualy feel and hear the differance.. the diffeance being i can tell by feel and sound if the toe does'nt make contact , if you understand what i'm saying. Watching the movemant of slurry/water in front of the edge also helps. I find it can be decieving as slurry/water can soill over the toe making it look like the toe is making contact when real it is'nt same goes for heal. I will use marker when i'm unsure. Or just observe the bevel.

By high spots do you mean high spot along the bevel ,that have to be smoothed out with a even stroke?

If a blade requires the rolling X, I will also to rolling halfstrokes. But if, upon testing, I notice that only a part is slightly behind, I don't hesitate honing up and down (no diagonal stroke) at that part for a number of strokes. I also do the same if I notice that an edge has the beginning of a frowning curve (introduced by previous honing that was not mine). The bevel on a razor develops slow enough so that you can steer it in the right direction, at least if you're prepared to pay attention while honing.

With "high spots", I mean this: imagine an edge that's keen along it's entire length except a small portion at the middle. Hence you need to remove steel of the bevel faces at the middle of the blade. But you can't reach that steel without also removing adjacent steel that was already keen enough. Or otherwise put with a comparison, you can't sand a dimple out of a tabletop if you're not prepared to sand the rest away.

Kind regards,
Bart.

 

[garyhaywood]

Im still having trouble doing a full coti dilocut. It is hard to dilute the slurry on a 4X2 coticule. If I go to diluted I loose all the slurry, or only can do 1 inch strokes to keep it all on. It there a way around this, or am I doomed to buy more rocks?

I think well i'm posative that 4x2 is way to small. You need 6x 2 at least. I would'nt have anything less than 7" width 2" or even less. Its all about many laps you need more lenght.

4x2 great for travel touch ups and creating a slurry.

 

[Bart]

Gary is correct that 4" is not ideal, but we must not exaggerate: it can be done. You 'll need more laps for sure, but other than that, the principles are the same. I have this video showing a honing stroke. Perhaps someone should slow it down, yet if you look very closely, you can see how I deposit the slurry near the end of the hone, and pick it up with the spine of the razor. I don't lift the spine to do that, but slide the spine behind the slurry while I make the sideways motion that slides the heel of the razor back on the hone (after only the toe stayed on at the turning point). This keeps the slurry on the hone, no matter how short or long the hone it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQOA5m0o5_s

Best regards,
Bart.