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Couple of finished Scale Jobs
- Thread starter rayman
- Start Date
tat2Ralfy
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work absolutely love them, esp the W+B in Amboyna, what is that wood Ray? is very lush indeed, also did you polish the blades on these or are they just rescales?
BTW I dont know if you noticed but some bugger has left a live round in the W+B. you may want to check that its not left in before you send it out!!....lol
BTW I dont know if you noticed but some bugger has left a live round in the W+B. you may want to check that its not left in before you send it out!!....lol
Smythe
Well-Known Member
I love the Torry scales, I always appreciate that contrasting striped grain in wood, but “bloody hell” the Butcher’s scales are simply stunning. Is it just bias because it a butcher? or maybe the scales are so thin and slick.
It is times like these I wish I could work with wood.
I have to agree with Ralfy, you may want to remove that round before sending it out... after all it’s a “cut throat” not a “throat round” lol.
But do you mind if I make one observation concerning the wedge on the butcher scales?
It is times like these I wish I could work with wood.
I have to agree with Ralfy, you may want to remove that round before sending it out... after all it’s a “cut throat” not a “throat round” lol.
But do you mind if I make one observation concerning the wedge on the butcher scales?
matis said:
Matt,
The finish on the Amboyna and the Cocobolo is CA glue. I tried for a more satin finish on the Amboyna because of its size. The original high gloss finish was a bit overpowering for its size. I then used paste furniture polish and buffed it out.
I have tried the epoxy finish, the one that is used on bar tops. It was actually harder to work with than the CA glue and I didn't care for the final finish it gave me. I might try it again on some different woods and see what happens though.
Working with the CA is cheap and easy to work with. Just make sure you have some boiled linseed oil handy when you wipe it on. A few drops, wiped on top of the glue, will accelerate the CA slowly and speed up the process.
Give it a try on some scrap pieces, If you have never used it, I think you will like it.
Good Luck,
Ray
By the way, I just received a Wapi, new in the box, that I am going to re-scale for someone with black/dark green G-10. This is one of those new composits on the market. I will post pictures of the progress later.
Matt
Well-Known Member
Tat, check these out. All of them are heavily oriented at wood turning, yet still there's a lot of useful information.
Wiki gives some interesting information: )
Wiki gives some interesting information:
Also: (not Wiki anymore
)
Ray, do you apply the oil on fresh, still wet, uncured CA? Don't they mix, or sth like this? Can't imagine that.
As far as I know, Boiled Linseed Oil is the only substitute for CA Activator. It is slower and less exothermic. I put just a few drops on a rag and wipe on the CA as soon as I can. It only takes a few seconds to work and you can simply wipe it off and start over again.
When I apply the CA, I put my finger in a latex glove and wrap it with several layers of an old T-shirt. Put some CA on the scale and take that covered finger and spread the CA in one direction only, as fast as it will let you. I can usually make 3 to 4 quick passes before the glue starts to glump up. Stop there and move up the scale and do it again. After it is covered in CA, apply just a little Linseed Oil.
Enjoy!
Ray
When I apply the CA, I put my finger in a latex glove and wrap it with several layers of an old T-shirt. Put some CA on the scale and take that covered finger and spread the CA in one direction only, as fast as it will let you. I can usually make 3 to 4 quick passes before the glue starts to glump up. Stop there and move up the scale and do it again. After it is covered in CA, apply just a little Linseed Oil.
Enjoy!
Ray