Couple of finished Scale Jobs

[rayman]

Here are a couple of finished Jobs that I will be sending out tomorrow.

The first is a standard Torrey razor finished in Cocobolo with a black Ebony insert.

And here is a 9/8 Wade and Butcher in Amboyna ready for delivery.

Let me know what you think.

Ray

 

[tat2Ralfy]

Beautiful work absolutely love them, esp the W+B in Amboyna, what is that wood Ray? is very lush indeed, also did you polish the blades on these or are they just rescales?

BTW I dont know if you noticed but some bugger has left a live round in the W+B. you may want to check that its not left in before you send it out!!....lol

 

[Smythe]

I love the Torry scales, I always appreciate that contrasting striped grain in wood, but “bloody hell” the Butcher’s scales are simply stunning. Is it just bias because it a butcher? or maybe the scales are so thin and slick.
It is times like these I wish I could work with wood.

I have to agree with Ralfy, you may want to remove that round before sending it out... after all it’s a “cut throat” not a “throat round” lol.

But do you mind if I make one observation concerning the wedge on the butcher scales?

 

[Bart]

Excellent work, Ray. There's something very luscious about the W&B with the Amboyna scales. The peening job looks perfect. :thumbup:

Bart.

 

[justin]

I've never really cared for wood scales, but I would take the pair on that meat cleaver any day. Good work!

 

[Matt]

Amboyna scales are truly amazing, Ray. What's the finish? Have you tried epoxy and if so, what do you think about it?

I'll rescale my Wapis one day, I really will... :sneaky:

cheers,
Matt

 

[rayman]

Amboyna scales are truly amazing, Ray. What's the finish? Have you tried epoxy and if so, what do you think about it?

I'll rescale my Wapis one day, I really will... :sneaky:

cheers,
Matt

Matt,
The finish on the Amboyna and the Cocobolo is CA glue. I tried for a more satin finish on the Amboyna because of its size. The original high gloss finish was a bit overpowering for its size. I then used paste furniture polish and buffed it out.

I have tried the epoxy finish, the one that is used on bar tops. It was actually harder to work with than the CA glue and I didn't care for the final finish it gave me. I might try it again on some different woods and see what happens though.

Working with the CA is cheap and easy to work with. Just make sure you have some boiled linseed oil handy when you wipe it on. A few drops, wiped on top of the glue, will accelerate the CA slowly and speed up the process.

Give it a try on some scrap pieces, If you have never used it, I think you will like it.

Good Luck,

Ray

By the way, I just received a Wapi, new in the box, that I am going to re-scale for someone with black/dark green G-10. This is one of those new composits on the market. I will post pictures of the progress later.

 

[tat2Ralfy]

Ray thats awesome (the glue bit) well all of it really, I didnt know you could use it as a wood finish :thumbup:
Does it have to be linseed oil, or will any other oils do?

 

[Matt]

Tat, check these out. All of them are heavily oriented at wood turning, yet still there's a lot of useful information.

http://www.gulfcoastwoodturners.org/RESOURCES/Cyanoacrylate_Glue.htm
http://www.thogamecalls.com/PDF Tutorials/FillingGrainandFinishingCallsWithCAGlue.pdf
http://www.asthewoodturns.com/caglue.pdf
http://www.woodturners.org/meetings/meeting_minutes/2008/ca-finish.pdf

Wiki gives some interesting information:

Applying cyanoacrylate to materials made of cotton or wool (such as cotton swabs, cotton balls, and certain yarns or fabrics) results in a powerful, rapid exothermic reaction. (...)

Material Safety Data Sheets for cyanoacrylate instruct users not to wear cotton or wool clothing, especially cotton gloves, when applying or handling cyanoacrylates.

Also: (not Wiki anymore )

Perhaps the most important tip to remember is to be sure that you never glue yourself to anything larger than you can pick up and carry to where you keep your CA solvent! : : :

Ray, do you apply the oil on fresh, still wet, uncured CA? Don't they mix, or sth like this? Can't imagine that.

 

[rayman]

As far as I know, Boiled Linseed Oil is the only substitute for CA Activator. It is slower and less exothermic. I put just a few drops on a rag and wipe on the CA as soon as I can. It only takes a few seconds to work and you can simply wipe it off and start over again.
When I apply the CA, I put my finger in a latex glove and wrap it with several layers of an old T-shirt. Put some CA on the scale and take that covered finger and spread the CA in one direction only, as fast as it will let you. I can usually make 3 to 4 quick passes before the glue starts to glump up. Stop there and move up the scale and do it again. After it is covered in CA, apply just a little Linseed Oil.

Enjoy!

Ray

 

[tat2Ralfy]

Thanks Guys for both your top notch advice and the information, Matis those links are cool buddy :thumbup: