tat2Ralfy
Well-Known Member
I have noticed that when honing old razors it is important to take into account both blade width and spine wear, we are aiming for about 17.5 degrees on the old bevel, and older blades that have been breadknifed to remove damage, frowns etc, and are also suffering from spine wear just are not going to hit that straight on the hone, to make matters worse our beloved Coticules dont seem to take kindly to cutting large area's of Razor steel, so the large bevel makes for very hard work (one reason the 2nd stage of the unicot method works so well)
What I do now with the older Razors is to use Sir Bart's Bevel table, as if they were wedge's, and Bingo! the old girls now hone up easier, the bevel is wonderful and the edge is oh so keen. Gleaming!
So if you are struggling to hone up an older razor, that has been reworked and suffers hone wear, why not give it a go? its surprising what a difference taping the spine can make, oh yeah and you may want to make a few notes because when honing time comes around again its a ball ache when you forget and watch the bevel grow and grow, until you realise you taped the spine before.
What I do now with the older Razors is to use Sir Bart's Bevel table, as if they were wedge's, and Bingo! the old girls now hone up easier, the bevel is wonderful and the edge is oh so keen. Gleaming!
So if you are struggling to hone up an older razor, that has been reworked and suffers hone wear, why not give it a go? its surprising what a difference taping the spine can make, oh yeah and you may want to make a few notes because when honing time comes around again its a ball ache when you forget and watch the bevel grow and grow, until you realise you taped the spine before.