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Here is my latest attempt, a vintage Huveso 65 in Spalted Beech, Perspex Wedge, Handmade Washers and Pins, All work as usual by my good self.
Just finished Honing the little blighter, test shave in the morning, thank you for looking.
I have a question about the spalted wood. Spalting in wood is an active fungus and stays active in areas where humidity is above 12%, so I guess England qualifies. Did you kill the fungus before you sealed the wood?
You more than likely don't have anything to worry about. Until recently, white shellack was used to seal the wood as one way of stopping the fungus from growing. Another was to put the wood into a kiln and dry it out, bring the humidity of the wood down, and hat would kill the bacteria.
Today, CA is a widely acceptable method of accomplishing the same thing. Although you didn't CA the inside of your scales, let's hope that the fungus was already inactive to begin with and this is just something to remember the next time you use spalted woods.
Very nice thing, although I find this a little too skinny - yet, in my opinion, even further narrowing the pivot end would help to get a more nicely balanced look, now the edges run a tad too parallel for my taste. Unless it is just a shooting angle?
After, all, I thought it's about honestly admitting what you think rather than patting each others' back... I see I've been challenged! : Actually, the 1[sup]st[/sup] thing I'll attempt will be some local cherry wood I have been promised, I won't risk it with such precious stuff
PS. As for the delivery, I wouldn't be that sure about the time. Maybe I'm just awfully unlucky, but it's been 3 weeks since Gary had sent me the strop and it's still not here, let's pray it's all about the volcano and it find its way to me eventually.
Matt..You are absolutely right..and you`re inputs are much appriciated.
Sure hope you did`nt missunderstand my intentions
As for the cherry...that is actually some very nice wood to work with, and goodlooking too so that should be some nice scales...and perfect bwahahah:
So do I hope! I have enough blades to cut myself if otherwise. : : :
BTW, as I'm a total newbie to any woodworking (also, haven't seen the wood block yet) - what would you suggest for finishing this wood? Shellac that Ray mentioned sounds really interesting to me, but it has its own, brown colour, maybe it'd be an unsuitable selection in this case?
Hav`nt tried the beetle juice yet. Just finished a set of scales in cherry with a wenge wedge and the wenge turned almost yellow/black after applying CA...
How about trying shellac on a very small area of the wenge and see how it turns out?
Perhaps the shellac should be thinned with...erhhh...something...to easier sink into the wood..as far as I remember it dries very fast and thus wont get deep enough into the grain..
And it will need sanding between layers..
Shellac is dissolved in alcohol. I read that it can be used as grain filler too, I even saw a product called shellac sanding sealer, which was in form of powder - I don't know in what way it differs from ordinary shellac. I also read that you can use regular shellac as grain filler simply by making it more dense, i.e. putting more shellac into the mixture with alcohol. For finishing it's best (as often with other finishes) to apply many thin coats rather than less and thicker.
Hopefully Ray will chime in with his priceless knowledge?
Hmmm will a cheap whisky work...it would sure smell nice ;-)
But as you say: Its about loads of thin layers and sanding in between layers. Did it on a guitar ..well a part of it...and the wood got a beautyful deep glow..but it took many layers to achieve that result.