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Huveso 65
- Thread starter tat2Ralfy
- Start Date
VancouverTerry
Active Member
This looks like a georgeous razor. Congrats on a fine job.
Terry
Terry
Ralfy,
You more than likely don't have anything to worry about. Until recently, white shellack was used to seal the wood as one way of stopping the fungus from growing. Another was to put the wood into a kiln and dry it out, bring the humidity of the wood down, and hat would kill the bacteria.
Today, CA is a widely acceptable method of accomplishing the same thing. Although you didn't CA the inside of your scales, let's hope that the fungus was already inactive to begin with and this is just something to remember the next time you use spalted woods.
Great job on the scales by the way.
Ray
You more than likely don't have anything to worry about. Until recently, white shellack was used to seal the wood as one way of stopping the fungus from growing. Another was to put the wood into a kiln and dry it out, bring the humidity of the wood down, and hat would kill the bacteria.
Today, CA is a widely acceptable method of accomplishing the same thing. Although you didn't CA the inside of your scales, let's hope that the fungus was already inactive to begin with and this is just something to remember the next time you use spalted woods.
Great job on the scales by the way.
Ray
tat2Ralfy
Well-Known Member
Bart said:
Thank you my friend, the thing I did different this time was to wax the whole thing 3 times before I took the photo's the wax does give the scales a nice luster :thumbup:
Best regards
Ralfson (Dr)
P.S oh yeah one last thing:
Spalted Beech. now that wood is hard as iron!!
Matt
Well-Known Member
Oh bollocks! Indeed, I am... :sleep:
After, all, I thought it's about honestly admitting what you think rather than patting each others' back...
I see I've been challenged! 
: Actually, the 1[sup]st[/sup] thing I'll attempt will be some local cherry wood I have been promised, I won't risk it with such precious stuff
regards,
Matt
PS. As for the delivery, I wouldn't be that sure about the time. Maybe I'm just awfully unlucky, but it's been 3 weeks since Gary had sent me the strop and it's still not here, let's pray it's all about the volcano and it find its way to me eventually.
After, all, I thought it's about honestly admitting what you think rather than patting each others' back...
I see I've been challenged! : Actually, the 1[sup]st[/sup] thing I'll attempt will be some local cherry wood I have been promised, I won't risk it with such precious stuff regards,
Matt
PS. As for the delivery, I wouldn't be that sure about the time. Maybe I'm just awfully unlucky, but it's been 3 weeks since Gary had sent me the strop and it's still not here, let's pray it's all about the volcano and it find its way to me eventually.
torbenbp
Well-Known Member
Matt..You are absolutely right..and you`re inputs are much appriciated.
Sure hope you did`nt missunderstand my intentions
As for the cherry...that is actually some very nice wood to work with, and goodlooking too so that should be some nice scales...and perfect bwahahah:
Have a nice one
Sure hope you did`nt missunderstand my intentions
As for the cherry...that is actually some very nice wood to work with, and goodlooking too so that should be some nice scales...and perfect bwahahah
: Have a nice one
Matt
Well-Known Member
torbenbp said:
Sure I didn't mate
torbenbp said:
So do I hope! I have enough blades to cut myself if otherwise.
: : : BTW, as I'm a total newbie to any woodworking (also, haven't seen the wood block yet) - what would you suggest for finishing this wood? Shellac that Ray mentioned sounds really interesting to me, but it has its own, brown colour, maybe it'd be an unsuitable selection in this case?
kind regards,
Matt
torbenbp
Well-Known Member
Hav`nt tried the beetle juice yet. Just finished a set of scales in cherry with a wenge wedge and the wenge turned almost yellow/black after applying CA...
How about trying shellac on a very small area of the wenge and see how it turns out?
Perhaps the shellac should be thinned with...erhhh...something...to easier sink into the wood..as far as I remember it dries very fast and thus wont get deep enough into the grain..
And it will need sanding between layers..
regards
How about trying shellac on a very small area of the wenge and see how it turns out?
Perhaps the shellac should be thinned with...erhhh...something...to easier sink into the wood..as far as I remember it dries very fast and thus wont get deep enough into the grain..
And it will need sanding between layers..
regards
Matt
Well-Known Member
Shellac is dissolved in alcohol. I read that it can be used as grain filler too, I even saw a product called shellac sanding sealer, which was in form of powder - I don't know in what way it differs from ordinary shellac. I also read that you can use regular shellac as grain filler simply by making it more dense, i.e. putting more shellac into the mixture with alcohol. For finishing it's best (as often with other finishes) to apply many thin coats rather than less and thicker.
Hopefully Ray will chime in with his priceless knowledge?
kind regards,
Matt
Hopefully Ray will chime in with his priceless knowledge?
kind regards,
Matt
torbenbp
Well-Known Member
Hmmm will a cheap whisky work...it would sure smell nice ;-)
But as you say: Its about loads of thin layers and sanding in between layers. Did it on a guitar ..well a part of it...and the wood got a beautyful deep glow..but it took many layers to achieve that result.
regards