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my new coticule

Tazz (from Tazmanian Devil?)

Glen (gssixgun) has a vid on SRP on honing a smiling sheffield wedge. What might be useful is the way he clarifies the rolling x-stroke (spine never leaves the stone), and the specifics of the sweeping stroke that finish the toe. I found it very helpful. If it's not a pronounces smile or swayback, the 45 deg x-stroke works well, and helps correct issues w/ the spine/edge from improper honing - according to Glen. He is a goldmine of help and information.
 
Or indeed you could check our very own sharpening academy, I may be wrong but I believe this site is founded on the wish to help others to learn the skills needed to hone razors, and has one or two knowledgable gents as members.

I will reserve judgement on my own experiences with the aforementioned srp vendorator, as it is my birthday ;)

Best regards
Ralfson (Dr)
 
Happy Birthday Ralfy. Mines next week B) . Hopefully I'll get my stone by then.

Could the issue be that when you originally bought the razor it was honed with tape on it? If so you'd have to work on the slurry until the bevel is reset to normal, or you could add a layer of tape starting at the beginning (milky slurry) and then add another layer for the finishing (assuming you're using unicot).

Justin
 
tazzbaby said:
hi its a famex 5/8 and was shaving great before i blunt it to try my new toy lol now its not shaving at all it was honed for me by neil miller at the strop shop and has been a great razor and was wicked sharp up till now am just not sure were am going wrong

As said, keep the slurry on the light side of a milk-like consistency. Add a drop of water at the first signs of dehydration.

If fhe razor has a smiling edge, you must indeed add a slight roll to your honing stroke. Unless it's a very pronounced smile, you don't really need to lift the razor above the hone, it's more a matter of shifting the pressure: first on the heel, over the middle and, near the end of the stroke, on the tip. You can watch the wave of slurry in front of the edge to guide your stroke. It must make the same gradual shift.

If a certain part of the edge stays behind, there is nothing against doing some work on only that third of the blade (I mean the tip third, middle third or heel third)

Keep your eyes open: inspect the bevel regularly. If it becomes wider at one side than the other, spend some extra time on the narrower side.
Very important: the blade does not need to loose any visual amount of width to reach a good bevel.
Probably this blade did still have a pretty good bevel, it is odd that you've done so much work already, without passing the arm hair test.

Have your performed many touch-ups on a pasted strop?
If not, than there is a serous possibility that some problem in your stroke sets you back. The razor must never be in any motion without the spine making proper contact with the hone.

keep us posted, we'll figure it out.

Best of luck,
Bart.
 
Ralphy! indeed! Best of Birthdays!

And no slight intended on the native talent, which is formidable. 'Just looking for arrows from anywhere - to put in Tazzbaby's quiver.
 
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