Per chance, is the 1/3 of the edge towards the foot harder to get sharp than the rest of the edge?

[MarkAU]

This seems to be my experience. I can get 2/3 of the edge from the tip (very!) sharp. If it was this sharp all over, I would be very pleased.

Unfortunately, the 1/3 of the edge towards the foot of the blade hardly shaves arm hair. I thought it was the cheap razor, so tried another - exactly the same problem, in the same area, so clearly I am doing something wrong.

On a second attempt, I paid particular attention to this area of the edge on both razors, seemingly to no effect.

Is the bottom 1/3 known to be harder to get sharp? If so I would appreciate advice.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Matt]

I understand, that by 'foot' you mean the heel, right?

Try incorporating the slight roll in your strokes. Even if the razor is not a smiler, a gradual pressure shift will help.

[note=Additional remarks concerning rolling strokes]It is advisable to always put at least a minimal hint of roll in your strokes. On most razors, not so much a real roll is called for, but rather a gradual shift in pressure: first on the heel, over the middle to end on the tip. And the reverse of that while pulling the razor back during halfstokes.[/note]
Also it will let you observe how slurry/water behaves if front of subsequent parts of the blade. Also, observe carefully, at very low angle, if your edge is really straight, it might have the heel pointing up a bit. Not a rare thing at all, in this case a roll will be necessary.

Also, you may put a finger on the part that stays behind and do some extra work on it:

There's nothing wrong with doing a bit of localized work on a part of the blade that stayed a bit behind. A few dilutions, starting at a thin slurry, may be all that's needed. Do keep an eye on the edge curvature. Unless you are honing out chips or frowns, there is never a need to visually reduce the width of blade during a sharpening job.
Just run the Coticule a couple of times with a slurry stone, place your finger on top to the toe or heel (whatever part is was that stayed behind) and make a few sets of halfstrokes, while diluting. Only aim them at the particular blade part. Finalize the effort with halfstrokes on clear water, performed at the full length of the blade. Finish with X-strokes, in your normal fashion.

Did you try to search the forum and knowledge base, my friend?

regards,
Matt

 

[IsaacRN]

This may sound a bit daft, but I dont really concern myself with the last 1/4 or so near the heel. I have a few Livi razors, that because of the way he grinds the stabalizers, they usually tend to hit the stone if i really concentrate on that area. So I usually have 3/4 of the blade good to go. I really dont find myself shaving with the heel of the blade.

 

[MarkAU]

Thanks, Matt - I was doing a swaying stroke but not the rolling. That looks tough but I will give it a go - thanks for the advice. I'll also continue to keep reading!

Oh and IsaacRN thanks, that's good to know.

 

[Loric]

This is a shot in the dark, but if its a big old Sheffield wedge, many of them have a slight warp. As stated above a rolling swaying stroke will work well. Or you can take the easier, more expensive rout. I tend to prefer a long narrow hone for this reason. It lets me isolate different arias of the blade individual. Sure you can do it with a bit more effort on a wide hone, but I am more consistent with a narrow stone. I tend to shave with all of the razor even that last 1/3 by the end, some parts of my face are just easier to get to with it, so its important for me to have equal results all the way across.

 

[rtedwards]

Rolling stroke and a narrow stone (40 mm or less) always works for me. Sometimes you do need to focus on one part of a blade a bit more; that is where a 25mm bout shines.

 

[MarkAU]

Thanks for the advice.

After a couple of weeks practise it is clear that I was just not spending enough time on the bevel correction stage, and then finishing (dilucot) expecting it to magically be sharp For some reason, I felt like I had to do the bevel correction in 2 sets of half-strokes, but now I am doing it until the blade can shave arm hair all the way along, and on both sides, even if this takes 3-4 lots of slurry. I am also trying to use more of the stone for each stroke.

Oh and the new videos of Gary helped immensely!

My results are a reliable HHT 2-3 after stropping, which gives a respectable shave, so I am happy. Now it's time to improve!

 

[Matt]

Oh, my. Bevel setting is a total foundation of a good edge. No bevel - no further steps, period. But you already know it now.

BTW, did you try UniCot? Properly executed, it will always give you HHT-3 straight off the hone. I don't know if you have any other Coticule honed razor to gauge (thanks Ralfson that's a nice word ) yours against - if you don't, Unicot will a) get you faster there, b) provide you with an excellent benchmark for your DiluCot attempts.

Good luck and keep us posted.

regards,
Matt

 

[Bart]

Sounds like you're doing well, Mark. :thumbup:

Have fun,

Bart.

 

[MarkAU]

Thanks for the encouragement, Sir Bart and once again, Matt.

In case this helps anyone, another error was not keeping the razor perpindicular to the stone - i.e. not leading with the edge (I had the blade kind of rotated in the y axis 45 degrees - leading with the heel of the blade if that makes sense). I am also taking care to make a long stroke, and of course practice has resulted in improved pressure and keeping the blade true against the stone.

The best thing I learnt is that some blades just hone easier than others! My fancy razor (TI Le Grelot) took a corrected bevel much faster than the others, it was a pleasure to hone. I was never truly satisfied with the shave from that blade, it wasn't smooth, but is now quite acceptable. It can only get better!

For now my blades are usable once again!

Thanks gents - for helping me - but also for keeping the art alive.

 

[Matt]

In case this helps anyone, another error was not keeping the razor perpindicular to the stone - i.e. not leading with the edge (I had the blade kind of rotated in the y axis 45 degrees - leading with the heel of the blade if that makes sense).

Well, I wouldn't say it's an error per se. Doesn't do any damage, nor causes inconsistency. I actually find it beneficial, because when the razor is slightly rotated from being 90 deg to the stone's axis, the heel is a little farther from the very edge, than it is when the blade sits perfectly perpendicular. This way the heel stays a bit longer on the hone. But I admit that it's rather something around 20-30 deg for me.

The best thing I learnt is that some blades just hone easier than others! My fancy razor (TI Le Grelot) took a corrected bevel much faster than the others, it was a pleasure to hone. I was never truly satisfied with the shave from that blade, it wasn't smooth, but is now quite acceptable.

Now I'm talking about something I've not experienced personally, but it is widely recognized here, that (some?) TI's can get a good edge only with tape. Or pasted strops, because apparently their steel was designed to carry a little bigger bevel angles.

Glad you're getting better at it. :thumbup:

regards,
Matt