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pressure

garyhaywood

Well-Known Member
bart i just read up on dilucot in acdamey. Itsays keep pressure the same as bevel setting.

i have been keeping pressure light as pos at times and have actauly found keeping pressure down does create keener edge . to me it seems wrong in doing this but it seems to keep the keeness going . i have also found doing to many light finishing strokes can infact reduce keeness only slight.some of my best ateempts have been with pressure. just enought to keep razor firmly on the hone and not pushing into hone .also i find you can reach keeness quiker and finish with less laps on water at the lighter stages. so pressure is ok to use i must of missed the section where it says keep pressure the same as bevel setting.
 
I have also noticed this (see my thread below).

This may not work with all kinds of hones (especially synthetic/artificial hones), but it seems to work with coticules and my Asagi hone. If you look at the video of JimR's barber honing with a Japanese natural hone, he uses a light pressure throughout the honing.

Honing pressure is not as bad as it's made out to be.
 
i've literaly honed as light as feather on coticule and not found any better edge. i 'm sure you need enough pressure to keep the edge flat or on the hone. slight pressure before hand certanly does no harm
 
I'm not sure I completely understand the point you're trying to get across, Gary.

My personal recommendations are to use slight pressure during "bevel correction" stage and "dilution" stage. As stated in the article, slight pressure in the range 250-330g (8.8-12oz).
This should easily bring an edge to the "violin" level on the HHT-scale, in many cases better.

For finishing I rely on a whole arsenal of different variations. My first approach is to do 50 of my lightest laps on water. In about 70% of cases (by my estimation), that brings the edge right were I want it. If not, I try different options. Adding a bit of pressure to the process is one of them.

Maybe I could turn finishing with pressured strokes into my "standard" routine, and call featherlight strokes an alternative variation. But I actually prefer to always try the gentlest way that still works, first. During the dilution stage, the benefits of pressure are so obvious, that I turned it into my standard approach. For finishing, I'm not convinced that pressure is always better, so I try the lightest pressure first. At any rate, the stone makes a big difference. Take the "Les Latneuses" Coticules, for instance. They do not work well when you finish with pressure on the creamy side, while the same approach works very well on their hybrid side. It always take an amount of "getting acquainted with" a Coticule, to know it needs to handled to deliver its peak edges.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 
Perhaps this pressure need is determined by coticule garnets shape - though they are mostly round. On same time, the artificial abrasive particles are mostly sharp egded. I'm afraid the coticule garnets shape is the origin of coticule smoothness too.

Regards to all,
Urmas
 
urmas said:
Perhaps this pressure need is determined by coticule garnets shape - though they are mostly round. On same time, the artificial abrasive particles are mostly sharp egded. I'm afraid the coticule garnets shape is the origin of coticule smoothness too.

Regards to all,
Urmas
That sounds like a very reasonable explanation, Urmas.

Thank you.

Bart.
 
i just grabbed my ti which hht was pritty good . i decided to another 30 laps on water i stropped and not any improvemant. i did 15 back and forth strokes 30 in total, with a little pressure and 30 laps normal. stropped and there is noticable differance in hht. It always seems to be my ti's that are the hardest to reach that peak.
 
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