What's New?
ShavingUniverse.com

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

progressive honing

G

garyhaywood

Well-Known Member
Bart when you did do your progressive honing with your 10k coersa. when and how did you use it and how many laps did you need. I remember you used it to up keeness. Was this straight of slurry or at the end of dilucot then 10k then coti water. Also do you think your 10k would be suficient to refine coming of milky slurry?
 
Back then, I used this progression: DMT1200 - BBW/slurry - Chosera10K - Coticule/water.
The shaves off the 10K were excellent as well. I took me 30-60 light X-strokes on the Chosera10K to max out (measured with HHT).
I could also skip the BBW and replace it with the Chosera5K.

Nowadays, the Chosera sees little use around here. Occasionally, I hone a few razors till they max out on the 10K, and then refinish on different Coticules for the sake of having a fixed base of comparison. But I've done this often enough to know that there are no difference between Dilucot on a Coticule, and a finishing on the same Coticule after the 10K.

garyhaywood said:
Do you think your 10k would be sufficient to refine coming of milky slurry?
Click to expand...
Yes the Chosera10K can easily handle an edge that went halfway through a Dilucot procedure. But I don't really see the advantage of doing it. I find the challenging part of honing to get the finish right. I'm talking about that last bit of keenness that can make the difference between a decent edge and a superior one. That part can be evasive on a Coticule, as well as on a Chosera or on any hone for that matter.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 
I just watched raspur doing a similar thing on belgium then he switches to 10k naniwa. If you take a look over at his website you can take a look.
 
Yes, the Chosera10K is quite fast. Swarf forms rapidly. Similar to the short video I've shown on that Les Latneuses. It also glazes fairly rapid. At first that helps for a better edge, but when it's really glazed over, it becomes a problem. It needs frequent cleaning. Naniwa delivers a special cleaning stone with it.

Bart.
 
That makes sense! I only own the normal Naniwas and not the higher end stones so I was unfamiliar with the speed of that particular 10K. I know my Naniwa 12K doesn't build up swarf that fast.
 
You're correct, Gary. Because he used to sell Naniwa Choseras, I assumed it was a Chosera. The color looks about the same too (although my Chosera doesn't have a plastic base.)
I watched the video again (and read the subtitles). It indeed is a Naniwa Superstone. I wan't even aware they had a 10K. I thought it jumped from 8K to 12K. You learn something new every day. My apologies for raising confusion.

Bart.
 
I have a 10k 1"x6" Chosera available in my travel strop kit that I have experimented with as you have Bart and pretty much came to the same conclusion. The 10k is a nice alternative while you are on the road, however, but I still prefer not to play mix and match when honing with my coticule if I can avoide it.

I also think I remember talking to Tom from Jendeindustries once and he might have said that naniwa made a 3k and 10k pro series stone but it was not available in the states. I will find out later this evening and get back to you on this.

Ray
 
Bart raspur says he goes from 600 to 1200 dmt then he hits a fast coticule with water then a select coti both with water has you see he finishes on naniwa 10k. He does'nt use 600/1200 unless doing bevel work. The reason i no is i just brought a la grelot from him honed on that full progression. The only reason you can see a very watery slurry on coti is because he has honed several razors in that video previously.also thats the reason for quite a lot of swarf on 10k. Can you see that working on any coti with water. I carn't imagine any coti with water is fast enough to refine after 1200 dmt. I have tryed and the shave was not happening. I got the razor bouncing of my wiskers.
 
Maybe is "fast coticule with water" is one that autoslurries a bit?
I don't know. Maybe it's one of thos rarer specimen that's fast one water (remember the little Les Latneuses video I made?) Who's to tell. If it works for Martin, that's great for him. But I'm certain that it won't work for all Coticules that way. I can't make comments on the Naniwa Superstone 10K. Never tried one. How did you like the shave with the edge on the Le Grelot?

Best regards,
Bart.
 
The shave was exallant. These razors have a great write up and i can see why . They realy are worth 115 eur and more.

btw i got down to 2 layers on the wedge and the shave was realy sweat. A massive improve mant from 5 layers. 4 layers was much better, by dropping the angle it realy smoothed the edge out. Like to say thank you to your self and ralfy. As it realy learned me somthing new. Honing with lots of tape makes it harder i thought, i found i had to use my index finger to keep the blade down.
 
garyhaywood said:
Bart raspur says he goes from 600 to 1200 dmt then he hits a fast coticule with water then a select coti both with water has you see he finishes on naniwa 10k. He does'nt use 600/1200 unless doing bevel work. The reason i no is i just brought a la grelot from him honed on that full progression. The only reason you can see a very watery slurry on coti is because he has honed several razors in that video previously.also thats the reason for quite a lot of swarf on 10k. Can you see that working on any coti with water. I carn't imagine any coti with water is fast enough to refine after 1200 dmt. I have tryed and the shave was not happening. I got the razor bouncing of my wiskers.
Click to expand...

Gary,

Earlier I said I might use a different type of stone while honing with a a coti. The DMT is that stone. I have used both the 600 and the 1200 and only for setting the bevel when I am up against a difficult edge. Once that edge and bevel have been formed properly, I usually do one pass across the edge of a glass and begin all over on the coticule. It has been my experience that this procedure allows for a much better feel for what is happening as the blade is going through the different stages of the sharpening process on the coticule, thus producing a much keener edge the first time through.

Ray
 
ray if you used the 600 would go 1200 before coticule? or 600 straight to coticule?

Yes i also just tryed dulling after dmt and it good idea , bart pointed that out to me the other day.

do you still use your crox/ balsa at the very end and then finish with coti water ?

regards Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top