REVIEW: StraightRazorSharp balsa strop

[Paul]

Well ya know we are still learning Mitch, best thing I did was get a razor honed by Sir bart for free, gave me a great benchmark, and i am a little ocd about collecting and using the best I can afford, there are are quicker and cheaper ways of going about it all

More involved is better than Complex I think, 2 razors, 1 hone, one strop and you will never be short of a shave ready blade once you have the skills and understanding of course :thumbup:

You know Ralfy, I really like this post. In this scene, we have a tendency to really accumulate much more than we need. A rational person could very easily buy 2 razors a coticule and a strop and be set for life if he were so inclined... Such a simple pursuit really seems attractive. Imagine how well a person could get to know such a modest assortment... Alas, I will never know :

 

[Bart]

I much appreciate the review on the balsa strop, and was wondering if paddle strops (pasted) are similar in effect, or substantially different? Having zero experience with either, and having tentatively decided to use a paddle strop with fine diamond paste.. should I rethink? I'd not intended to have both, in fact hadn't considered balsa strops. Advice welcomed. I had planned to simply glue heavy (conditioned, beveled, flattened)saddle leather to a 2x2x12+handle pine block, on 3 sides, for .5mike, .25mike, & plain leather with the 'bottom' left plain/no leather.

In my experience, pasted leather is different than pasted balsa. You can't put much CrO on leather, because a fuzzy layer is guaranteed to work backwards. You need a thin hazy stain on the leather, not a real "coat" of abrasives. Balsa seems to be able to embed much more CrO. That makes CrO on balsa much more effective as CrO on leather. Both work, it just depends on how many laps you're going to do. Leather, depending on how thick it is, has more cushion than balsa. For this reason, edges coming off pasted leather tend to become a bit convexed. That makes leather useless as a go-between strop before finishing on the Coticule. (though CrO provides a nice finish on its own as well).

Personally, I'm not very fond of diamond abrasives for the final finish on an edge you will be shaving with. Even at its finest sizes, diamond abrasives are mainly just abrasives. They remove metal by creating scratches. There's little "buffing" action going on. Softer substances, such as CrO, offer a different ratio between abrasion and buffing. Buffing being more cause by plastic flow (a deformation at microscopic level of the surface of the steel). The result is a smoother edge. Diamond compounds work well and fast, but a lot of people find the edges harsh. If you have it available, it doesn't hurt to try for yourself. (In fact it may hurt, but not thàt much. )

Best regards,
Bart

 

[torbenbp]

Whoaaa! Damn this little beauty works great...gave a shave ready-at least I thought it was- 12 gentle strokes on the balsa strop and it passed the HHT right away. Never been able do that before. So I see no reason for using a leather strop as well..?
Waiting for my beard to grow out :thumbup:

 

[Bart]

So I see no reason for using a leather strop as well..?

Actually a normal stopping session on linen and leather is still highly recommended. If you would compare 2 identical razors, one straight off the Balsa strop (or any other pasted strop) and one with additional stropping on a clean linen/leather strop, you'd surely feel the difference. Also comparison of HHT-results would reveal a benefit of clean stropping. The HHT can be more than just a "0" or "1" test.

Best regards,
Bart.

 

[tat2Ralfy]

Not only that but a using a balsa strop before every shave is gonna ruin that blade in a heart beat, and without a hanging strop how are you going to care for the edge post shave?
Of all the strops out there, I think we can all agree the essential one is the hanging strop, post and pre shave and post honing it has to be one of the most indispensable pieces of kit we own.

 

[rayman]

Sorry guys, I am busy taking pictures. Both Bart and Ralfy are correct. The use of the Hard Balsa Strop is not intended to put the final finish on the blade. It is intended to be used when your stropping does not work as intended. It will bring the blade back to life and you can continue to just strop again. I believe the instructions indicate that.

Both are correct in stating that nothing can take the place of the finial stropping. That is the key to the incredible keeness you feel coming off your stone. So, as has been stated, continue stropping.

Ray

 

[torbenbp]

Hi

Offcourse you are totaly correct. Got a bit carried away by the results
Will continue stropping. And I`m currently searcing for a new strop instead of the homemade padle-like strop.