Gentlemen,
this is a great thread. I think a lot of valuable points have been made, both by the original poster (fdennis), and by the rest of you.
During the day, without having read any of the answers, I've written on and off on a post to fit in this thread.
Some of what I wrote was already covered or clarified by fdennis. Please bear with any repetition from my side.
Here comes:
The quest for the ultimate edge can take several incarnations.
Is it a quest for sharpness? If the answer to that question is yes, save the money for a Coticule and buy lapping film instead. If you take it all the way to 0.1µ (add one sheet of paper underneath the films below 1µ for a minimal bit of cushion), you will get the sharpest edge you ever experienced. That edge will disintegrate, probably even before the end of the first shave, because no steel is capable to withstand the stresses of the shave at such a thin apex. The peeling effect on the skin of such an edge is extremely high, and it immediately retaliates every minor deviation in an ultra light and angle-aware shaving technique. I would call that "too sharp", but I've ran into discussions with people like Glen Mercurio who deny that an edge can be too sharp and use the euphemism "harsh" instead. Fact remains that one can also choose to finish the lapping film progression one or two stops earlier, at 0.3µ or at 1µ, and experience edges that last longer and still glide through whiskers without any effort. Such edges are kinder to the skin of a most people. I have tried this approach to sharpening myself, and came to the conclusion that diamond lapping film is the easiest way I know to push the keenness of your razors through a barrier where you likely find it too much. There is no natural or man-made solution that can define a thinner and cleaner edge than lapping film. That's because the film offers a perfectly smooth surface with the thinnest possible coat of abrasives. A hone is always a solid mass of packed abrasives, and its surface can never reach the level of perfection of a lapping film. But obviously you can come very close with hones in the ultra high grit ranges and/or diamond spray up to 0.25µ.
Bottom line: if you want to explore the limits of keenness, go with man-made materials. They hold a clear technological advantage in that field. But there is a chance that you may return slightly disappointed from that journey, because not everyone finds his shaving nirvana on the peaks of ultimate sharpness.
Which brings us to the next question:
Is it a quest for smoothness? Is there even a difference between these two: keenness and smoothness? I believe smoothness has 2 attributes. The first in indeed keenness related. If the razor does not slices effortlessly enough through the beard, the user will experience a pulling sensation. He will be tempted to apply more pressure on the razor to achieve a close shave, which will lead to skin irritation. Therefor, a razor that lacks keenness, will never offer a "smooth" shave. But as I already mentioned in the previous paragraph, depending on personal shaving style and skin properties, there will likely be a point where the razor can be too keen (or too "harsh", if you wish). Problems in this area may not be noticed as much during the shave, as the skin my protest after the shave (or in mild cases: after a few shaves). Additionally, superficial nicks and bleeding weepers may be occurring.
A truly smooth razor will support a daily shaving routine that allows the owner to be impeccably shaven without any worries about skin condition. I believe that sweet spot can be found where personal shaving style and skin properties meet adequate keenness.
On a more technological note, if we can agree that a smooth edge does not call for the physically keenest edge possible, we are left with a new variable. Allow me to explain. A mathematically keen edge has bevel faces that meet at an infinitely small line. That line cannot else than to be uninterrupted. But if the razor must be less than mathematically keen - whether we choose it to be that way or we're just unable to get it that keen, is irrelevant - we are left with a region at the "summit" of the bevel, that is undefined. We could call it the
thickness of the edge and we know that, for shaving purposes, this thickness was measured by Professor Verhoeven to be 0.5µ or less. Note that a difference of as little as 0.1µ may not appear as significant, but in reality it denotes a keenness difference of 20% (0.4µ is 20% less than 0.5µ)
This small region is without doubt affected by stropping, but I
believe also the finishing hone has a substantial influence on that part of the edge. Razors are probably the only entity in the domain of sharp utensils where that kind of honing influences have any practical meaning: we are cutting one thing(hair) while at the same time avoiding to blemish another thing (skin). This is were natural hones truly shine. (See, these ramblings are actually leading somewhere.
) Synthetic hones are not specifically created for razor honing. They're aimed to deliver fast results and to work well in a progression with other hones of the same brand. Natural hones, on the other hand, are not
made for honing. They just happen to be suitable for it. And through the ages of humans putting them to use, some of these rocks have surpassed their local whereabouts. Some surpassed even there regional identity, their national fame, and eventually became in use all over the world. Why do you think Coticules could be found in barbershops all over the globe?
Yet there were other rocks of similar reputation and it is not the scope of Coticule.be to claim that Coticules are
the best a man can get. It is our scope to help the man get the best out of his particular natural hone. Nothing more and nothing less.
Will a Coticule help you find your sweet spot? Unpredictable.
More than with any other sharpening setup I familiarized myself with, reaching a good edge on a Coticule is a personal achievement, rather than an achievement of the tool. Used with slurry Coticules are powerful enough to shape a bevel, and used with water they are gentle enough to put an amazing finish on an edge. But getting that edge keen enough to deserve such astounding finish, can be rather evasive. If one's prepared to use a few capable synthetic hones to meet that keenness before finishing, one can estimate the value of a Coticule without much trouble, certainly if you've already mastered the synthetic route.
On the other hand, someone who's struggling with finding sufficient keenness with a synthetic setup, must not expect any solace from a Coticule. I have the feeling that Eschers are better for that purpose, as they seem more prone to add keenness in the way a synthetic hone can.
And for a third and final question:
Is it a quest for more accomplishment? As already briefly stated, sharpening with a Coticule can be a very fulfilling activity, that won't be matched by any other hone, except by the venerable Japanese hones. One takes a razor and a Coticule, and by the time one's finished, one shaves with that razor and walks away like a king who just visited his blooming kingdom. I can't describe it any better than that. It may appeal to you, or it may not. It is fine either way.
Kind regards,
Bart.