DIY low cost restoring tool for razors

urmas

Well-Known Member
Hello,

Recently I finished it.

4598196760_4d60d55b3e_d.jpg
4598196696_c806317d5a_d.jpg

And yes, it looks bit strange, but it works quite well.

Regards,
Urmas

Edit: I replaced the link with pictures.
 

Smythe

Well-Known Member
Yes, it works quite well, it will remove the rust and pitting from the concave of the razor.. And if used carefully will even remove the hone were from the spine and leave nice vertical grind marks. and because the drill has lots of torque and low RPM you may never burn a blade.

The only issue (and it's a small one) changing the abrasive paper is tedious... but the whole thing works better than hand sanding and is the next best thing to the original wheels used to grind the razor a the factory.

If necessity is the mother of invention, ingenuity is the father.
Excellent idea my friend.:thumbup:
 

urmas

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your kind words gentlemen. :rolleyes:

In case someone wants to build such a tool, I am ready to provide guidance and recommendations. I'm glad if I can support the coticule community!

With the best wishes,
Urmas
 

Bart

Well-Known Member
Great post Urmas, thank you for sharing.

I have worked (still do on occasion) with a very similar setup.

I got very decent results with Scotch Brite wheels.

They come in 3 different grades. Coarse, medium and fine, and leave a satin finish, as you can find on many recent production razors.

The rest of my "drill buffer" setup included a sisal rope buff loaded with brown tripoli compound, a cotton wheel with white polishing compound and a felt wheel with a blue (high luster) compound.



A while ago, I upgrade to a jewelers lathe, but I must admit that the results so far have not surpassed those of my drill based setup.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 

ferroburak

Active Member
I had asked the possibility of using a drill as a grinder but got the answer 'It would be too dangerous' some time ago on a knife maker's forum. Yours is very good looking :)
 

Bart

Well-Known Member
I buy them at a local tool store, but if you look online for "scotch brite wheels", they should not be hard to locate.
I also have them without shaft, bought here:
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Kind regards,
Bart.
 

urmas

Well-Known Member
Bart,
Thank you for recommentations.

Ferroburak,
No, it's not so dangerous. And thats because there is no need for high rpm at all. Although, you have to be always careful with rotary power tools... and also with sharp razors too. :)

As it goes for good looking, I don't really made my best in that meaning. Most important thing for me is that it works well. Recently I ordered 5 additional rolls with greater diameter and with help of those, I can do a blade regrinding too. Soon I intend to make a experiment about this and I will post the results on forum.

Best regards,
Urmas
 

Tcensor

Well-Known Member
Urmas,

This is a very nice setup. I think that improvising as you do, is a great way to achieve some wonderful results on a fairly low budget. It just goes to show - where there is will - there is a way. I wanted to ask, did you make the abrasive wheels yourself? and if so, what material are you using for the wheel? Ocalon? Dalorine?

Thanks for sharing.
 

urmas

Well-Known Member
Tcensor,

I didn't make the wheels myself, I ordered them and I don't know from what material the turner used. What I know is that this plastic is quite common in turnery. For fixing sandpaper on those wheels, I used the double sided tape.

Wim,

Overall, this is very simple device. It's main components are:
1. the drill - I bought it for € 12 from building store. It is important that it has a variable speed, the rotation revers and the trigger/power switch lock;
2. the shaft support - is made from wood and it has two ball-bearings within it. The ball-bearings are attached to wood with using the construction silicone (neutral one). The shaft support is really important and without it the device is not operating properly;
3. the shaft - it is needed that the shaft is straight and long enough. You can make it from some suitable bolt for example.
4. the wooden base for drill - it's purpose is only to keep the drill firmly in place, it's design is not significant at all.

Regards,
Urmas
 

slartibartfast

Active Member
I built a cheap buffer by going to the flea market and buying a $10 1725 rpm motor, then buying an $7 arbor adaptor.

Trying to find the pictures....
 

Toff

Well-Known Member
Wonderful idea and nice accomplishment! Variable speed and easily enough power to get the job done on any less than a production line basis!
Respectfully
~Richard
 

urmas

Well-Known Member
Thanks Richard,

I have to admit that it is not entirely my idea. One american guy made out of his cheap water-grinder something similar before me... I only improved the idea further.

Best regards,
Urmas
 

wdwrx

Well-Known Member
Toff said:
Yes, but you were kind enough to post it!
Respectfully
~Richard
ah ha! You'll find that here.... And Urmas is proving to be one of the most generous people in the joint.
 

Toff

Well-Known Member
Very nice work. :thumbup: :thumbup: The material of the disks seems to be Nylon, but could be PVC. The use of foam double coated tape answered a question I had about how you reduced the hardness of the contact surface. You did the wrapping well!!
Keep the ideas and solutions coming!
Respectfully
~Richard
 
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