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Yes, it works quite well, it will remove the rust and pitting from the concave of the razor.. And if used carefully will even remove the hone were from the spine and leave nice vertical grind marks. and because the drill has lots of torque and low RPM you may never burn a blade.
The only issue (and it's a small one) changing the abrasive paper is tedious... but the whole thing works better than hand sanding and is the next best thing to the original wheels used to grind the razor a the factory.
If necessity is the mother of invention, ingenuity is the father.
Excellent idea my friend.:thumbup:
No, it's not so dangerous. And thats because there is no need for high rpm at all. Although, you have to be always careful with rotary power tools... and also with sharp razors too.
As it goes for good looking, I don't really made my best in that meaning. Most important thing for me is that it works well. Recently I ordered 5 additional rolls with greater diameter and with help of those, I can do a blade regrinding too. Soon I intend to make a experiment about this and I will post the results on forum.
This is a very nice setup. I think that improvising as you do, is a great way to achieve some wonderful results on a fairly low budget. It just goes to show - where there is will - there is a way. I wanted to ask, did you make the abrasive wheels yourself? and if so, what material are you using for the wheel? Ocalon? Dalorine?
I didn't make the wheels myself, I ordered them and I don't know from what material the turner used. What I know is that this plastic is quite common in turnery. For fixing sandpaper on those wheels, I used the double sided tape.
Overall, this is very simple device. It's main components are:
1. the drill - I bought it for € 12 from building store. It is important that it has a variable speed, the rotation revers and the trigger/power switch lock;
2. the shaft support - is made from wood and it has two ball-bearings within it. The ball-bearings are attached to wood with using the construction silicone (neutral one). The shaft support is really important and without it the device is not operating properly;
3. the shaft - it is needed that the shaft is straight and long enough. You can make it from some suitable bolt for example.
4. the wooden base for drill - it's purpose is only to keep the drill firmly in place, it's design is not significant at all.
Very nice work. :thumbup: :thumbup: The material of the disks seems to be Nylon, but could be PVC. The use of foam double coated tape answered a question I had about how you reduced the hardness of the contact surface. You did the wrapping well!!
Keep the ideas and solutions coming!