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DIY low cost restoring tool for razors
- Thread starter urmas
- Start Date
wdwrx
Well-Known Member
I was wondering that as well, then it occured to me it's probably for release. I do something similar with my table-saw as it is prone to getting adhesive on it, so i keep a good layer of wax (mixed with graphite for glide) to help with popping the glue off. Double sided sticky tape is a bear to remove without some kind of thinner.
Great idea, Urmas, a simple and elegant solution.:thumbup:
Great idea, Urmas, a simple and elegant solution.:thumbup:
urmas
Well-Known Member
Wim,
I think that you can not simply buy this material from the store. It is available in companies that are supplying machine building companies or turneries.
If you're interested in, then I may soon offer my own device to you or put it to marketplace with all the wheels. I've come to the enlightment that I do not have time to deal with everything...
Chris and Bart,
Yes, the candle wax will help to avoid the tape sticking to strongly to the wheel. It's quite important thing when changing sandpaper.
Richard,
You know, I'm not sure about this contact surface softness - I rather think it is not needed at all. Today I tested with carpet tape and the first impressions were very good.
Thanks guys,
Urmas
I think that you can not simply buy this material from the store. It is available in companies that are supplying machine building companies or turneries.
If you're interested in, then I may soon offer my own device to you or put it to marketplace with all the wheels. I've come to the enlightment that I do not have time to deal with everything...
Chris and Bart,
Yes, the candle wax will help to avoid the tape sticking to strongly to the wheel. It's quite important thing when changing sandpaper.
Richard,
You know, I'm not sure about this contact surface softness - I rather think it is not needed at all. Today I tested with carpet tape and the first impressions were very good.
Thanks guys,
Urmas
deighaingeal
Well-Known Member
I am going to work on this some day, but I don't know if I want to mount it to my wood lathe, metal lathe, drill, mill or just mount another motor. I was thinking DC for this one for the PWM.
I also have been working on creating a wet belt grinder. When I finally get all of the money together I will share, but for now it is a bunch of drawings and parts lists. I was thinking of two belts with interchangeable platton wheels and a drip system. then use wet sanding belts and a parallel lever to move the blade up into position. I would add a spring to limit my ability to push too hard on the blade. I will be making every part that I can.
I imagine it similar to what the factory grinds are made on except I wouldn't have to worry about the wheels changing size over time. This would allow me to replicate the grind marks from the factory with regularity.
I also have been working on creating a wet belt grinder. When I finally get all of the money together I will share, but for now it is a bunch of drawings and parts lists. I was thinking of two belts with interchangeable platton wheels and a drip system. then use wet sanding belts and a parallel lever to move the blade up into position. I would add a spring to limit my ability to push too hard on the blade. I will be making every part that I can.
I imagine it similar to what the factory grinds are made on except I wouldn't have to worry about the wheels changing size over time. This would allow me to replicate the grind marks from the factory with regularity.
Toff
Well-Known Member
Just a suggestion, those old machines were made extremely heavy for a reason. All that cast iron damped out vibration. When the steel you are grinding is the thickness of a Gillette "Blue Blade" any vibration will chance a grind through. One wheel and belt grinding by hand will allow the vibration to be absorbed by the hands. Even then a grind through is easy!
Respectfully
~Richard
Respectfully
~Richard
Bart
Well-Known Member
decraew said:
Yes, and in the mean time, I've learned a thing or two.
Speaking of which, I have started wrapping strips of sandpaper around those mesh wheels I showed earlier in this thread. I cut the strip about 2cm longer than the contour of an all mesh wheel (haven't tried it with the mixed flap/mesh wheels). Next a thighten it up, so that the mesh compresses a bit and an glue one end on top of the other end. Beware not to glue your fingers to the sandpaper.
And of course the wheels can only revolve in one direction, so that the joint doesn't catch. It works quite well for restoration work, because the deformable wheels can match the curve of the blade. For actual regrinding, I expect Urmas solution to be far superior. I've done it with 400 and 600 grit wet&dry sandpaper. Don't know how coarser grits would respond. You can add one drop of glue somewhere underneath the sandpaper. That prevents it from shifting. It works too without it, but then you need to occasionally readjust the position of the roll. In absance of solid wheels, give it a try. I've been using 80mm wheels spinning as fast as 7500 RPM and the finish at 600 grit is just amazing. I was actually surprised how cool it ran as well.Kind regards,
Bart.
decraew
Well-Known Member
Bart said:
You mean the scotch brite wheels !? Good idea. I still have to locate those btw.
Sounds like a cheap alternative for this system here which has inflatable sanding drums:
http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/707410/Inflatable-Cylindrical-Drum-Sander-No-120/detail.jsf
BlacknTan
Well-Known Member
I'll preface my statements by acknowlewdging that I've never re-ground or sanded a razor, but I know enough about steel in very thin sections to be aware that slower surface speeds are preferable.
In that regard, when I still worked, every lab had a "variac" at hand. I'm no electrician, but I do know that it infinitely regulates voltage. It could turn a 1725 AC motor into a slow speed motor, or anything in between. And, they seem to be fairly reasonably priced.
I don't know if this can help anyone or not... Just thought I'd throw the info out there.
http://www.variac.com/staco_Variable_Transformer_Map.htm?gclid=CMaIkvDRt6UCFcNM4AodqTxmYg
In that regard, when I still worked, every lab had a "variac" at hand. I'm no electrician, but I do know that it infinitely regulates voltage. It could turn a 1725 AC motor into a slow speed motor, or anything in between. And, they seem to be fairly reasonably priced.
I don't know if this can help anyone or not... Just thought I'd throw the info out there.
http://www.variac.com/staco_Variable_Transformer_Map.htm?gclid=CMaIkvDRt6UCFcNM4AodqTxmYg
Toff
Well-Known Member
Hello All!
Good Idea but the "Variac" is a transformer that is adjustable as to the output voltage. When you lower the voltage, a circuit/device requires more current in amperes to operate. There comes a trade off where the current requirement is so high that the device either stops operating or goes up in smoke! A "brush type"/"Ac-Dc" motor will operate over a larger voltage range than will a "synchronous type"/ AC only motor. There are a whole lot of reasons for this and I am no longer qualified to even skim over them. That is why the variable speed drill motors seem to work and stop turning at a certain torque/speed point. They are built to accept a short term over current but even they will "toast" if stalled for much longer than it takes to release the trigger. Electronic speed controls operate by varying the amount of power to the motor by changing the shape of the sine wave from the mains.
Respectfully
~~Richard
Good Idea but the "Variac" is a transformer that is adjustable as to the output voltage. When you lower the voltage, a circuit/device requires more current in amperes to operate. There comes a trade off where the current requirement is so high that the device either stops operating or goes up in smoke! A "brush type"/"Ac-Dc" motor will operate over a larger voltage range than will a "synchronous type"/ AC only motor. There are a whole lot of reasons for this and I am no longer qualified to even skim over them. That is why the variable speed drill motors seem to work and stop turning at a certain torque/speed point. They are built to accept a short term over current but even they will "toast" if stalled for much longer than it takes to release the trigger. Electronic speed controls operate by varying the amount of power to the motor by changing the shape of the sine wave from the mains.
Respectfully
~~Richard
deighaingeal
Well-Known Member
I have a bunch of PWM circuits laying around. When I occasionally pull out a motor for a project it is nice to have them around, but what I find is that with most of my projects I find a fixed RPM and leave it there, so what I end up doing is stealing the same controls from one project to the next then just putting a fixed controller on the previous unit. I will never understand my own actions, I am completely random.
As for vibration I think I may mount my grinder on a weldament of tubular stainless steel then fill with sand and seal with plugs to prevent moisture from entering, but removable to ease mobility.
As for vibration I think I may mount my grinder on a weldament of tubular stainless steel then fill with sand and seal with plugs to prevent moisture from entering, but removable to ease mobility.
Toff
Well-Known Member
Hi Gerrit
Good idea about the tubes filled with sand.:thumbup: A large cross section tube ~4"/100mm with 3mm/.125" wall or thicker would be great. I just was reminded about project weight. I moved my 12"x18"x3" 300x450x80mm granite surface plate from its chest level shelf to a bench across the room to lap some stones. Sheeeeze!:thumbdown:
Well, Being completely at random does have some great benefits! If you have a few projects, they will build up till you are forced to continue one or another to get out from under or to pass bye or over them, in my case!!
Respectfully
~Richard
Good idea about the tubes filled with sand.:thumbup: A large cross section tube ~4"/100mm with 3mm/.125" wall or thicker would be great. I just was reminded about project weight. I moved my 12"x18"x3" 300x450x80mm granite surface plate from its chest level shelf to a bench across the room to lap some stones. Sheeeeze!:thumbdown:
Well, Being completely at random does have some great benefits! If you have a few projects, they will build up till you are forced to continue one or another to get out from under or to pass bye or over them, in my case!!
Respectfully
~Richard
deighaingeal
Well-Known Member
Ouchy! When I worked as a cabinet maker I installed marble and granite counter tops...by hand. try a 4 foot by 8 foot by 2 inch thick piece of granite. That always ruined my day. I actually broke my back years ago, so when I build tools I find ways of making them more mobile.
Smythe
Well-Known Member
Oh that reminds me…
There are a few restorers who grind new or re-grind vintage blades using a lathe. If you are also inclined to grind blades you can build your own wood turning lathe powered by a portable drill.
Or… if you are so inclined to “buff” (yyuuck!) razors, at the very least, the mandrill is at a low-rpm/high-torque, so there is less chance of drawing the temper.
Found in an old Popular Mechanics Magazine here:
http://books.google.com/books?id=9tsDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA196
(Special thanks to Google Books).
For the benefit of our non-US members who may not be able to open the link, here are legible JPEG scans of the relevant pages.
There are a few restorers who grind new or re-grind vintage blades using a lathe. If you are also inclined to grind blades you can build your own wood turning lathe powered by a portable drill.
Or… if you are so inclined to “buff” (yyuuck!) razors, at the very least, the mandrill is at a low-rpm/high-torque, so there is less chance of drawing the temper.
Found in an old Popular Mechanics Magazine here:
http://books.google.com/books?id=9tsDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA196
(Special thanks to Google Books).
For the benefit of our non-US members who may not be able to open the link, here are legible JPEG scans of the relevant pages.
randydance062449
Member
Congratulations on your ingenuity! I have something similar but mine is using a small pen makers wood lathe with variable speed control. One suggestion if I may....put some soft cushioning material between the wheel and the sandpaper. Use the 2 sided tape again. That will allow the sandpaper to conform to the specific curvature of the razor. It results in a much more uniform contact on the blade. As you know this process is much faster than buffing with greaseless buffing compound or the scotchbrite wheels.
OOOPS! I did not notice the other 2 pages of posts! Sorry.
OOOPS! I did not notice the other 2 pages of posts! Sorry.