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Getting frustrated...

J

jfdupuis

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I got a nice Japanese western razor for christmas.(from ambrose) SInce I like my razors hone on a coticule, I went back to my coticule to hone it. For some weird reason, I can get about half of the blade to shave and pop hair perfectly, but the other half starting from the middle of the blade to the toe won't pass the test at all. I've tried everything, DMT 1200, even 1000 wet/dry sandpaper followed by coticule with heavy slurry. I've alson tried with one layer up to three layers of tape. WHat would you guys suggest I do next? Try with no tape? SImilarly to my H. Diamond japanese razor, the spine is quite different than my other western razors...


thanks!

JF
 
By Japanese western do you mean fixed handle western grind or Japanese grind folding?
Either way my first thought is balance. I don't know why I go there, but if the scales are too heavy that could throw off your stroke. I have not experienced this, but have thought about the possibility while I made scales.
Also if there is something else unique about the shape it could throw you off in another way.
 
Thanks! The razor is a normal straight razor, but made in Japan. The spine just like my other japanese razor is a bit different than other european razors..The scales are not different than others I've used before. I can sort of hear a slight grinding sound when I get towards the toe of the razor. The weird thing is that it appears to get proper contact according to the marker test and even gives a great TPT feedback.
 
Does it also seem to have more draw towards the point, or does it slide?

Were they NOS or restored?
 
It seems to have more resistance towards the heel. This was a light restore from a well respected member over on B&B. I think he mostly worked on the pitting and rescale.

JF
 
Hmmm, this is a curious one…
The edge not keen from the middle to the point would suggest an uneven stroke resulting in that part not getting enough “sharpening time” on the hone. You may want to concentrate your efforts on that part especially if the blade has a smiling edge.

However if the above fails, then (just guessing here) considering it was a “light restore”… maybe there is still some corrosion at that part of the edge and the steel is weak. In that case, you may want to “hone past” the bad steel until you get to stable material good enough to support an edge. But before you go wearing down the life of that razor you may want to confirm with a 60x microscope because sometimes weakened steel appears perfect with the naked eye.

If you don’t have a microscope, then you may want make sure it passes the TNT (Thumb Nail Test) before you proceed to polish the edge. If the edge survives the TNT after another bevel setting then it should be good for polishing… polishing does no good if it does not pass the TNT. If it the edge constantly fails the TNT then you may have a bad razor...

I know this may be a “touchy” question but here goes… did the razor shave you well when you first got it? If it did shave you well, then maybe the razor is OK.

Keep us informed.
 
I would also use the narrowest hone you have to finish the edge. It can make a big difference if there is the slightest warp. I agree tones with Cedric about corrosion. Every time I have had your problem a small spot of corrosion on or very near the edge was visible under 50x magnification and hold the fin off the stone at that point and beyond. It doesn't take much at all to hold the edge away from the hone. Hope he didn't take it too far/too hot. Bon chance, Denny
 
Dear jfdupuis my experience leads me to suggest something .
Put the blade on the certified flat surface like a pane, wactcing that the spine ang the edge
touch along the entire length both sides.If not, thats a razor defect.
The only way to hone the razor successful is to do it on the stone no larger than 30 mm.
Good luck
Wishes
Emmanuel
 
The razor by the way is a Super Doll? Its the same blade as the other Japanese westerns. I would bring it down to 1k for a bevel reset and go from there. I think Jose finishes on a Chosera 10k and a chromox strop.
 
Hi,

yes it is a Super Doll. I've already taken the razor back to my DMT 1200. It does shave hair, but not all that well. I took it through a full dilution yesterday and the tip of the razor does not feel as sharp and won't pass the HHT test like the rest of it. I think I will take a break from trying to sharpen it for a little while. The razor looks amazing so I'm really looking forward to see how it can perform.

JF
 
you might need to spend more time at 1200 or go lower and come back back up. Its definately a bevel issue. It will shave just like H. Diamond when you get the bevel set.
 
Will do. The only issue I'm having with the DMT 1200 is that since it is such a quick cutter, I sometimes will end up with a blade that shaves hair quite decently and then I'll do a few more passes and the razor will stop cutting hair entirely. I forget what the term is....
 
Looka t the edge in the light. If you see anything but an edge as in rounding or refection and I mean ANY then the edge isn't ready.It should go from metal to nothingness without any graduation of any sort. If it doesn't your not done. I like The Naniwas myself for those lower grits.
 
Okay. How many passes on the DMT 1200 do you guys think I need? I could also use my coticule with heavy slurry which would probably solve the possibility of "overhoning" on the DMT.
 
i like the dmt's i have the 325/600 and 6x2 1200. if i'm setting bevel with dmt1200 . i'd use the tnt you will feel a strong drag. once you feel that test if you can shave arm hair test every 10 laps just light ones. i find once you lighten up your strokes on 1200 you get an edge that you can shave arm hair with . to much presssure and you loose that arm shave, its happend to me 10 light strokes and i'm shaving arm hair again, could be that you have over done it, but just hone untill your there again. then straight to dilucot.i find after i dull the edge 20 to 40 laps should be enought. i have found its quite hard to over hone on dmt if you just go light and let the hone do the cutting no pressure should be needed.
 
jfdupuis said:
Hi,

yes it is a Super Doll. I've already taken the razor back to my DMT 1200. It does shave hair, but not all that well. I took it through a full dilution yesterday and the tip of the razor does not feel as sharp and won't pass the HHT test like the rest of it. I think I will take a break from trying to sharpen it for a little while. The razor looks amazing so I'm really looking forward to see how it can perform.

JF
Click to expand...
ah if the tip is shaving arm hair , just dilucot the tip again and finish the hole edge on water , so just work the tip and finish the whole edge on water it will do the trick. sounds like you just needed to tilt your stroke to hit the toe it s quite common i find most razors need a little raize at the toe end .
 
As said solid advice from Gary on that one, also when you set the bevel with your dmt it is vital that it easily shaves arm hair along it's entire length before you move on, old advice I know but always worth a mention IMHO.

Best regards
Ralfson (Dr)
 
jfdupuis said:
Will do. The only issue I'm having with the DMT 1200 is that since it is such a quick cutter, I sometimes will end up with a blade that shaves hair quite decently and then I'll do a few more passes and the razor will stop cutting hair entirely. I forget what the term is....
Click to expand...
When this happens it is almost always a micro burr,so your bevels have met. Hate to sound repetitive, but give it six or seven laps on your jeans or a good strop. You might be surprised how sharp it is. You should even be able to pass as much as hht3 because of agressive micro teeth. Cat in lap. Stilted typing--sorry. Cat more important. YF, Denny
 
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