If he didn't specifically stated that his was talking about shaving lather, I would say he was talking about what we call slurry. Having tried thick and thin lather, I never could figure out what he's talking about.Napoleon_Leblanc said:Make a creamy lather and use thick to begin honing, When nearly done, add thin lather to finish, to set a fine edge. Thick lather mates the hone work quick and sets a coarse edge, while thin lather works slowly and sets a finer edge.
Now he talks about the "lather of the rubbing", which is indeed what we call "slurry". And in that paragraph it makes total sense with what we observe using our Coticules. But quite interestingly, he is not speaking about Belgian oil hones (his name for Coticules), but about German and Japanee water hones (Thuringer hones).Napoleon_Leblanc said:When using water hones, wet the face and rub with rubstone (rubber) or with the face of another hone until a thick lather of the rubbing is formed. Then proceed with the honing in the same manner as when using lather or oil hone. When nearly done add a few drops of water to thin out the rubbing and finish honing.
With the instruction set he gives, I can believe that. Coticules with shaving soap on top will provide a good touch up, but not much more.Napoleon_Leblanc said:Many barbers have better success with water hones.
and of course the part where he advices toNapoleon_Leblanc said:Every barber cannot use every hone successfully, and what is considered a poor hone by some will sometimes just suit others - and the same with razors. All depends on the way of honing.
Napoleon_Leblanc said:soak the strop in urine a couple of days
I think you are correct with that. It also appears that several of these writers, just copied their predecessors without double checking the facts. That could explain Leblanc's -let's admit it- nonsensical advice about the speed difference between thick and thin shaving lather on top of the hone.wdwrx said:I love that little pamphlet.
Regarding the use of the word "lather" I've been getting an idea that the earlier books use it in reference to slurry, but over time it morphed, to the point where in the early 20th century, it was often used interchangably, and by the 1950's it had come to mean shaving lather exclusively.
That's a great resource about razor grinds and models. But also this text contains mistakes:wdwrx said:
I presume that mr. Holzapffel might have had German or Austrian ancestors, but still his statement that Coticules (the reference to Old Rock!) are German hones. But his mistake is understandable. Belgian existed as a country only about 30 years when this book was published and Vielsalm was practically at the border with Germany. It is only after the first World-War that a part of Germany was add to Belgian territory and Vielsalm found itself considerably farther away from the newly drawn border.Charles_Holzapffel said:The Yellow German hone, particularly the slabs from the lower strata known as old rock, is greatly preferred to all the above for the principal office in setting razor, as it cuts more slowly, smoothly, and softly than any of the
You've got cows, right? Get off your lazy Canuckian butt and go put a pan on top of the flat rock they alway pee on. Dennywdwrx said:I did a quick search for uric acid online today... found a couple suppliers of Laboratory supplies places that cary it.... I'm not adventurous enough to order any though...
I wonder if vinegar would replicate the effect without the "eeeewwww" factor?
My wife's been pretty tolerant of my hobby so far, but I have this sneaking suspicion she'd draw the line at the soaking a strop in urine thing. Well, not that she'd really care what I did with it, just that I did it somewhere else!
DJKELLY said:You've got cows, right? Get off your lazy Canuckian butt and go put a pan on top of the flat rock they alway pee on. Denny
The Strike-Off is not necessarily to remove a “wire-edge”… it’s to remove a small amount of steel from the edge because it is too thin and week to form a bevel (filmy-edge).wdwrx said:hhhmmmm. Change of subject is in order, methinks!:
I popped in quick for lunch and thought I'd scan that "Turnings and Manipulations" article again.... I was struck by a few things: The method of removing the wire edge - "striking off". I can't help but think that the down-stroke on glass acomplishes much the same, if such a wire edge was present, say from too much stropping.. In the past, i've run a razor straight edge on to clean up a chippy looking edge and I've seen Livi Maestro do something similar in one of his videos before moving on to the polish. Very interesting.
The thumb nail test: Smythe, for one, has dropped a hint or two that he might use this technique, and I know of at least one other proponent. I've tried it, but always with a great deal of trepidation. Can't say I noticed that it affected the edge any.
I can't say I fully understand when the author mentions "in line with the finger, obliquely across the nail" with the implication it may be less harmful to the edge.
Also of note, was the mention of applying a "thicker angle" (is the term used I believe) for coarse beards, and a vague mention of the practice of honing with the spine raised to accomplish that.