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My best topic

G

Guest

Dears friends
I am very happy because i believe this will be my best topic in my coticule.be life.
After Barts's experiments with the dry soap and snowy Deny's investigation with the wax,after 3 days of hard job my eperiments were follows:
1) A recipe from my experience in the insulation of musical instruments.
In a jar one part corrected turpentine and one part beeswax.Both are natural material
I you have time you can wait until the beeswax disolved in the turpentine ,it takes some days.
You can work rapidly if you dips the jar in the boiling water never over the flame and the jar
sealed. You will have a beatifull and aromatic paste.With a rag you apply a very small quantity
of mentioned paste over the coticule until dried leaving a thin film.
I never felt a smoothles like that.I tried on six different coticules with the same result.I can
easily say that you can climb to hht 4-5 before stroping. This paste is a blessed material coming from the Cremona Master violing makers like Antonio Stradivari.
I am feeling that i gave out something important.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
G

Guest

decraew said:
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Corrected turpentine is the turpentine used by the painters is more thiner and volatile but you can use the common turpentine too.
I forgot to add in my post that you can clean completely the coticule also with a small quantity
of the same solvent.
Yours
Emmanuel
 

pinklather

Well-Known Member
Wow. Thank You, Emmanuel.

That the natural stones would not have a problem w/ such a solvent is good by itself, but with the beeswax mixture giving great results, this is possibly big. I appreciate your sharing the results & method.
 

chti_lolo

Well-Known Member
Very good idea Emmanuel:thumbup:

I have had some problem with hard soap and candle wax because there were always some spots with more drag.


Your recipe is quite the same as a product we call "encaustique" in France. This product is made of beeswax, pure turpentine and hard wax and is used to feed the furniture and to make them shining.
The smell of turpentine is much more pleasant that the smell of Zippo or naphta:)
Your recipe is something like 80% turpentine and 20% beeswax?

I will try soon with my "encaustique"


Regards

Laurent
 

chti_lolo

Well-Known Member
Hi Emmanuel,

I haven't well read the label on my "encaustique" box. It was written that there was 20% of beeswax but it was 20% of the wax. This product is soft too.
 

pinklather

Well-Known Member
Gents, has anyone found a common name in the states for 'corrected turpentine'?

Emmanuel, when you say it is used by painters - would that be artistic painters? or House painters? It would help steer me to which kind of paint supply to check. Is there any clean up or removal of the solution/treatment before you can raise a slurry again - or just use normally with residual treatment in place? Anything you call 'My best topic' has gotta be worth trying and getting right.

Many Thanks, All.
 

decraew

Well-Known Member
Seeing what Emmanuel's involved in, I'd say artistic painters. Check out the art-supply stores.
 

Jens

Well-Known Member
It's actually called turpentine in the US

See here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turpentine

Like so many other good natural things the turpentine god "replaced"
with syntethic stuff extracted from crude oil.

Real turpentine is made from pine & smells very good.
Many reffer to it as "painters turpentine".
The important thing is that smells good. Then you have the real stuff.
Real turpentine made from pine smells wonderfully & rather "natural"
The synthetic stuff smells chemical & nasty, like other solvent like paint thinner, gasoline & naphta.

Emmanuels mixture is a great paste for use on all wood & also horn scales.

A word of caution though:
It may smell very good, but it certainly is just as dangerous for you like any other chemical solvent. So be careful when handling it.
It's not a coincidence that painters back in the days all got crazy, sniffing that stuff all day long...

And thanks a lot for this neat trick!
 

Emmanuel

Well-Known Member
My friends and especially pinklather ,you have to use turpentine for artistic painters.Normally is bottled in small quantities and is very clear like water.The exact description is <<Turpentine oil>> or <<Spirit of turpentine>> .If you injure a pine ,what would drip is turpentine regin.Once done a distillation you get gum turpentine and oil turpentine.To buy from a store in your neighborhood,because it doesn't fly as dangerous good.Is innocent material as the petrol but is better to heat it outside and always double boiler.
Be advised as per:
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.
At your disposal.
Emmanuel
 

Toff

Well-Known Member
Jens said:
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Actually it was the lead oxide/ white or red lead, which was the base pigment component of most paints and primers back then. Chromic Oxide yellow and green were also not good for the health. Varnishers in furniture factories and boat works did not have the problem. I am old enough to remember the drunks that painted houses. Alcohol was their only way to deaden the severe head pain of lead poisoning. We are fortunate to have fewer toxic chemicals in our paints.
Respectfully
~Richard
 
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