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This is just to reach the higher fineness of a coticule after the normal procedure on water.Then you have to clean the hone with turpentine. If you have more coticules ,can let a coticule permanent pasted just for final finishing refreshing the hone with the paste from time to time if the surface is not enough smooth.I don't use the method .That given by Bart with hard soap to help the beginners.I just tried with the paste having a HHT5 sharing the recipe.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
Emmanuel and Gents! Thank You!

I had done some research and was just about to post results, but then I saw your replies which gave superior results. Gum Spirits of Turpentine specifies a refined wood-based product that would be familiar to local art suppliers - about $11-12/pint. Most of the same suppliers will carry the bees wax.

I'm looking at 6" of heavy wet snow outside, so it may be a few days before I can go get it and try it.

Haha! I repeated the question about cleaning before normal use, and you posted the answer while I was typing! Thank you so much Emmanuel.

Again, Thank you for sharing really hard to find techniques!
 
Toff said:
Jens said:
..snip...A word of caution though:
It may smell very good, but it certainly is just as dangerous for you like any other chemical solvent. So be careful when handling it. It's not a coincidence that painters back in the days all got crazy, sniffing that stuff all day long......
Click to expand...
Actually it was the lead oxide/ white or red lead, which was the base pigment component of most paints and primers back then. Chromic Oxide yellow and green were also not good for the health. Varnishers in furniture factories and boat works did not have the problem. I am old enough to remember the drunks that painted houses. Alcohol was their only way to deaden the severe head pain of lead poisoning. We are fortunate to have fewer toxic chemicals in our paints.
Respectfully
~Richard
Click to expand...
I stand corrected!

But I still recommend people not to sniff on turpentine more then necessary

Turpentine safety sheet:
http://www.inchem.org/documents/icsc/icsc/eics1063.htm
 
I wonder, can't we just use this on on a cheaper stone, such as a barber's stone off Ebay and use that as a permanent stone? I think this is awesome by the way, you are an artist. I play instruments and paint pictures in my spare time and this is something that struck me as very intelligent and interesting.

Thanks!

Question:
I usually use Turpenoid as an alternative since it's Earth friendly for my pictures, is this an alternative for this method also?
 
Turpenoid. I don't know Nick.Normally beeswax is soluble in any oil on 50 Deg. Celcius.The question is how much the solvent is volatile to let the surface dried.If you do it with a barber hone is possible but you'll have an edge that isn't coming from coticule.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
Hi Emmanuel,

In the 1:1 mixture - I'm assuming that mixture is by weight. Would that be correct? (as opposed to volume).
 
No problem with the quantities ,if you like the produced material softer you can add more turpentine.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
Toff said:
Jens said:
..snip...A word of caution though:
It may smell very good, but it certainly is just as dangerous for you like any other chemical solvent. So be careful when handling it. It's not a coincidence that painters back in the days all got crazy, sniffing that stuff all day long......
Click to expand...
Actually it was the lead oxide/ white or red lead, which was the base pigment component of most paints and primers back then. Chromic Oxide yellow and green were also not good for the health. Varnishers in furniture factories and boat works did not have the problem. I am old enough to remember the drunks that painted houses. Alcohol was their only way to deaden the severe head pain of lead poisoning. We are fortunate to have fewer toxic chemicals in our paints.
Respectfully
~Richard
Click to expand...

A little off topic, but we used to use white lead for cutting single point threads on problematic materials that had a tendency to tear, like some alloys of CRS.
All cans of white lead were confiscated from us years ago. Unfortunately, there is still no equal for it's performance in that application.
 
Hi Emmanuel;
I want to thank you... your formula is genius! Mixed some up tonight and applied it to my "La Veinette" coticule and voila! The results were absolutely outstanding!:) :thumbup:
Did a dilucot on the La Verte for my Thiers Issard, ( newer c135 metal, and has been very hard for me to hone properly ) once I'd gotten to the final stage with water, I finished off with the waxed coticule. The result was amazing...HHT 4 right off the hone. I've never able to get close to this result on this razor before (not without tape on Unicot and then going to the strop). Wow!:w00t: :w00t: :w00t: I was so exited I grabbed another razor ( Boker King Cutter ) dulled it on glass and did the same thing again, just to prove to myself how well this works. Bingo! Same great result. I'm sold on this method as an ultra fine finisher, especially on those tough razors such as the Thiers Issard, or those of us going through a learning curve. Many thanks for your time spent figuring this out for the rest of us. Cheers Mike.
 
It really seems like Emmanuel has had some success with this! Congratulations.

Do you think it would work equally well if applied to a combination coticule/BBW on the blue side? I'm only asking this because I still really like the idea of a one-stone solution and this application would allow that to stay the same with the finishing too.

Cheers

Squeezy
 
Mike,I'm glad to hear them,but the congratulations belong to Bart and one more mate that share first by the hard soap method.Me just i share the paste recipe.
Squeezy, of course you can apply the method on a BBW surly will be slower but the result will be
equally excellent.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
what is the minimal HHT the razor should reach before using this method? is it the same as Bart with hard soap?


Regards

Laurent
 
Emmanuel, the snow melted enough to drive into town and acquire the wax & turpentine. I grated the wax with a fine grater and set in a hot water bath and stirred. 'Dissolved fine.

Applied to a La Dressante, and took an old Wostenholm to it. I ran into stickiness with the wax catching the spine or edge, but it smoothed out. I got a new sample of test hair, so my hht was mixed, but it shaved well. I seem to have issues w/ any heavy sheffield, so this was not a good test.

Taking my Wacker wedge to an LPB for 20 backstrokes on water, then 150 x-strokes on the waxed Dressante, and hhts were very good - 3-4s before stropping. 100 canvax, 200 horse hide, and a test shave. It was the finest edge that wacker has ever worn. I've not gotten that nice an edge from the costly asagi. 'Just a beautiful shave.100 strokes was good, but the last 50 really added the quality. In stropping and honing, I seem to require more strokes than most. I can only conjecture that the quality of the stroke is at issue, but the net result was truly outstanding. You best topic gave my best coti edge on a challenging blade. Thank You again for a wonderful discovery.
 
On the Sticky stage of just coating the surface:

It took the equivalent of about 2-3 drops to fully coat the surface, after which time, there was excess wax which caused stickiness. The excess accumulates on the spine and just behind the bevel. The surface would smooth out, but only after cleaning the excess off the razor having drug the blade with a studder through the excess. Grab/release, hit the next excess section. At one point, I used the palm of my hand to smooth off remaining excess from the ends of the stone and noticed it smoothed it out. I put another drop of paste on the stone and worked it smooth with the palm. Immediately after smoothing, the surface was sticky, but no excess. Within a few minutes, the stickiness was gone, which I attribute to the turpentine evaporating, and the surface of the wax drying - very much like the process of a paste wax drying on a car. When dry, the surface was extremely smooth - like the surface of the asagi.

I think my stone surface prep will include smoothing and drying before bring the blade to it.
 
If you drop a little turpentine on your palm rubbing the hone by circular motions the surface will be smoother and smoother but not over do because you'll remove the whole quantity of the surface.
Friendly
Emmanuel
 
Wax coverage:
I did 4 razors over the weekend, and though perhaps the wax was running thin on the dedicated dressante bout. How one would verify too thick, too thin became the question. I put a drop in the middle and spread it all over, letting it dry fully before taking the blade back to it. 'Some carving through excess ensued, but settled down to a normal slick, dry feel. 150 strokes later, there was no change in hht, which makes me wonder if I was simply stroking wax & not hitting any garnet.

If there is a way to describe adequate, but not excessive coverage, it would be helpful. If I find a way to describe it, I'll post.
 
Please some questions:1)If the razors was fresh honed?2)Did you use the method before with succes?3)how long dedicated bout used?4)what the HHT before waxed honing?
Looking forward to your reply.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
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