Deckard
Well-Known Member
Hi Fellas,
Thank you all for all your comments and opinions, I find it quite encouraging.
The most encouraging thing I've noticed is what has not been mentioned, those things I've got right and are meant to go unnoticed.
This is the second time I've attempted this and the first time I've done what could loosely described as hollow grinding. I do this for enjoyment and make these pieces for my own use, the practical buzz comes from removing fascial hair well with a tool made by my own hand.
The basic stock removal method is to take a piece of tool steel bar and remove everything that dosn't look like a razor. I learned from others that there is a sequence to doing this and techniques for keeping things square and symetrical about a centerline to end up with a blade that will fit a pair of scales nicely and be geometricaly viable as a shaver.
I have developed some of my own tricks to this end, and can assure you that this is by no means an easy feat the first time. I will galdly share this with anyone who wants to ask the specifics.
The blank I started with was already outlined on a waterjet profiler and was given to me by a gentleman I know as Dave, user name Del1r1um on that other well known forum so he has to take credit for that.
For the technically interested the blank was 1095 steel, not the easiest to heat treat. Shallow harding steels like this needs to be quenched very fast, I used brine which scares a lot of guys. The trick with brine is temperature to control the quench speed.
Rough grind was done on a cheap 6" bench grinder, final hollow grind beleive it or not was done on a belt sander (it can be done). This is not ideal but can't justify cost of a belt grinder at moment.
The vine and leaf is a well known spine decoration and there a tutorials on the net for this I have the links if interested. It's actually a straight forward technique but requires a little patience.
The finish to near mirror was achieved by progressivley sanding through the grits up to 2.5K wet and dry, I then moved to various grit slurries from hones I have all the way up to 12K then finished with Mass metal polish. Micro mesh is the way to go if you don't mind spending a little. I left the filed parts satin to give relief to the pattern.
My mentors are people like Bob Allman, Charlie Lewis and the exquisite Lloyd Harner.
I had the blank for ages but when I got started took me about 5 months in spare time. Some weeks I could only get 1 hour or so as family takes priority. Have to wait for soap operas to start to distract the missus.
Thats it fella's have missed out tons of detail but just ask if you want to know what I know
Thanks again
Joe
Thank you all for all your comments and opinions, I find it quite encouraging.
The most encouraging thing I've noticed is what has not been mentioned, those things I've got right and are meant to go unnoticed.
This is the second time I've attempted this and the first time I've done what could loosely described as hollow grinding. I do this for enjoyment and make these pieces for my own use, the practical buzz comes from removing fascial hair well with a tool made by my own hand.
The basic stock removal method is to take a piece of tool steel bar and remove everything that dosn't look like a razor. I learned from others that there is a sequence to doing this and techniques for keeping things square and symetrical about a centerline to end up with a blade that will fit a pair of scales nicely and be geometricaly viable as a shaver.
I have developed some of my own tricks to this end, and can assure you that this is by no means an easy feat the first time. I will galdly share this with anyone who wants to ask the specifics.
The blank I started with was already outlined on a waterjet profiler and was given to me by a gentleman I know as Dave, user name Del1r1um on that other well known forum so he has to take credit for that.
For the technically interested the blank was 1095 steel, not the easiest to heat treat. Shallow harding steels like this needs to be quenched very fast, I used brine which scares a lot of guys. The trick with brine is temperature to control the quench speed.
Rough grind was done on a cheap 6" bench grinder, final hollow grind beleive it or not was done on a belt sander (it can be done). This is not ideal but can't justify cost of a belt grinder at moment.
The vine and leaf is a well known spine decoration and there a tutorials on the net for this I have the links if interested. It's actually a straight forward technique but requires a little patience.
The finish to near mirror was achieved by progressivley sanding through the grits up to 2.5K wet and dry, I then moved to various grit slurries from hones I have all the way up to 12K then finished with Mass metal polish. Micro mesh is the way to go if you don't mind spending a little. I left the filed parts satin to give relief to the pattern.
My mentors are people like Bob Allman, Charlie Lewis and the exquisite Lloyd Harner.
I had the blank for ages but when I got started took me about 5 months in spare time. Some weeks I could only get 1 hour or so as family takes priority. Have to wait for soap operas to start to distract the missus.
Thats it fella's have missed out tons of detail but just ask if you want to know what I know
Thanks again
Joe
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