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Problems with my new Wedge


Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I just got this beautiful wedge razor for christmas. THe razor was completely restored and honed by a prominent member over at SRP. After shaving with it 3 times, I still can't get a very good shave out of it. The blade cuts, but not very smoothly and even seems to somewhat skip every now and then. What would you guys recommend?

I guess if it was shaving ok and still does to a degree, it does not sound that there is much of an issue.

Not knowing any detail at all, If it were mine I would strop it say 50 laps on linen and same leather. Test shave. If that does not do the trick I would then try Issards paste or CRox or 50 laps on a coticule with water

However personally I would need to know a little bit of the history around how it was honed ie how much tape used (if any), does it have a secondary bevel

the razor was honed with one layer of tape. I've already tried about 50-60 laps on the coticule followed by fabric and latigo. Still no real improvement. All my other razors are hollow ground razors, so maybe I'm just not used to thick wedges like this puppy.

They are different. I am using one at the moment that reacts better at different angle to hollow ground, also cuts better when on a 3 day growth

I shave every day and not necessarily as good a shaver for me on a daily basis

I am suprised that it did not improve. Did you put a layer of taper on when you put in on the coti?
Yes I did. I think your theory that they perform best with more growth could make sense. I might follow up the coticule with some Cr0. Maybe that would give it a bit more bite.
If its shaving why don't you add one layer of tape if it was honed on one layer then add another layer of tape and do 20 on light misty slurry followed by 50 on fresh water so you have created a double bevel (unicot) then strop as usaul I,m sure that would help
THanks Gary. I think that will be my next option if the Cr0 doesn't work out. I'm a bit dissapointed it's such a beautiful razor.
I understand the dissapointment, but it is about getting used to the Coti and razor.

Just take it light and in stages and it will come good

TOP TIP!!! if you get frusterated PUT IT DOWN and come back to it another day
Don't worry it will get there it may take some tinkering i no tim has a thew wedges and they turned out great i.m sure he used unicot. He would explain.I would'nt shave with razor unlesss your passing hht on at least par 4 to 5 just tinker untill you can then shave
don't know if you guys have seen my other posting about lather but...I'm curious if it would make a difference.
Indeed I have just completed a wedge that was found in an antique sale. It had several big chips. It now shaves excellently

Since I started with straight shaving I learnt very quickly that peoples idea of "shave ready" differs.

I now shave my own to my standard - not sure if that would suit everyone - but it suits me.

I have worked with Gary as he is very good and precise so I know I am getting there

If you cannot get the wedge better after CRox and/or light sluury followed by water then you could try starting again

If you are not confident to do this you could consider sending it to one of us or to Bart himself
I was going to mention that. If in dout for example the other guy may of honed on tape but it could be slight differance in thickness. I would rehone using one layer of your tape or two. Just start on a regular slurry and do the usaul dilucot method from the acadamy strop and shave if your not happy then go back and do the last stages of unicot which would be extra layer of tape 20 to 30 misty s then 50 water that will not fail then if your still not quite there you can try 10 laps on cr ox . Its up to you but there are quite athew options ray recomends adding another layer of tape after unicot method and doing 6 laps on cro.ox Try each stage to compare the differance if there is any you will no what worked for that razor. btw issards paste on canvas strop is realy good stuff me and tim both use it and have been very happy with the results,
Mmm did you use the bevel angle calculator to work out just how many layers of tape you need? I have err 2 or is it 3 wedges? and they all take more than 1 layer.
As said on the rest I would check the layers needed then go back to coti with a very light slurry, do say 30 light laps then 50 on just water, hht and if its not a catch and pop do 50 again on water and test again
Hope this helps and just try to relax and enjoy, not many people get as frustrated as me at times, trust me. and i know if I get stressed i cant get the results I am after doing this no way.
THanks Guys! Well I haven't thought about checking how many layers of tape would be needed. The seller honed it with one layer. He's a very prominent figure over at SRP so I believe he knows what's required.
Those damn wedgies, they are fantastic shavers, perhaps better than full hollows in my opinion (and let me say this one more time… In My Opinion).

The trouble with wedgies...the bevels grow to un-manageable sizes in short order. When that happens it may take several orders of magnitude more effort to get them sharp again (good luck if you have to hone out a sizable chip) no wonder the advent of the “extra” hollow and full hollow spelled the death note of the wedge and near wedge blade.

So be prepared to do at the very least, three times the number of laps as would be necessary for a hollow ground blade… of course it would all depend on the size of the bevels. Compare the size of the bevel to one of your hollow ground blades and you may get an idea (if they are the about the same size then it shouldn't be long to get it sharp). Remember, you are removing steel from the bevel to get the edge sharp. And at final polishing stage or touch-up, if the bevel is large will require more still more laps.

Tape is a good idea when it comes to wedgies. There is something about this in the Unicot Method… If the blade was previously honed with a single layer of tape, and you now want to touch up the edge with a single layer of tape, then you may get it sharp, but you will also be widening the “small” primary bevel. Adding another layer (now 2 layers) of tape will only crate an additional bevel in front of the primary bevel (will still get it sharp, but mot the best solution).
What you want to do is make the primary bevel smaller, so hone without tape with heavy slurry, this will remove material from the larger secondary bevel which will make the primary bevel nearest to the edge much smaller, then when you are about to give up (it will take some time but not long), place one layer of tape and you can now get the edge sharp quickly because you will be working the now much smaller primary bevel.
Try that… you have nothing to lose… except maybe some of the spine.
Thanks. I'm still waiting for a reply from the seller before I do anything else. He's an experience member so I'm sure he has a good recommendation.


2-1 Habs! GO GO
Oh, I’m sure he is highly recommended, a good number of these guys are, but have you considered sending it back to him for a complimentary touch-up? I am sure he wouldn’t mind.
I might when I hear back from him. It's such a pretty razor, it's a petty the shave isn't o par with its look.