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neeed assistance

My friend start from the beggining as a new from the manufacture razor.DMT 1200 until coticule.
You need a new edge.For my opignion the problem will be solved.If do let me know.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
emmanuel said:
My friend start from the beggining as a new from the manufacture razor.DMT 1200 until coticule.
You need a new edge.For my opignion the problem will be solved.If do let me know.
Best regards
Emmanuel
Click to expand...
Yes he could start over, but I suspect he’s done that a few times… but no harm in doing it again… I remember re-sharpening one problem razor 3 times before I got the edge just right.

But let me say this… There are quite a few things that must be perfect during the manufacturing process before a razor will produce a durable edge after honing… nothing is perfect, and even the best of brands, sometimes a few are produced that will hold a perfectly good edge… but not for very long. And the manufacturer/retailer would never know unless the razor has been used a number of times.

Also, even though you bought it from a respected member, an error can indeed occur (remember we are not all perfect). For example: if the razor was NOT in his rotation, and he shave-test one side of his face… he would not notice a razor with a factory flawed edge that does not last through the shave.
If it was IN his rotation, and it shaved him well, maybe your beard happens to be more resistant (we are all different).

Again the above assumes you know have “reasonably” good experience sharpening razors because you mentioned sharpening others razors with success.

You could also ask the seller if he used tape or paste or any special process to sharpen that razor.

As for the irritation, I suspect, if the edge looses keen after the first side of your face, then by the time you get to your chin it would most likely be pulling… so you get some irritation in that area.

Please keep us up to date on this one.
 
Sounds to me like a problem with crumbling steel.
If that razor was restored recently, it's not uncommon that the thinest outer part of the blade has developed spots with where the steel no longer has proper temper. It is very easy to overheat a thin blade on a buffing wheel, certainly near the edge. It's often only on a few spots a couple of the first micron of the steel that's affected and easily crumbles, either on the hone, or during the shave.

It's only a hunch, but if true, without a microscope, it would be impossible to confirm, and even harder to fix.

Quite frankly, we've speculated so often about problematic razors, that I've come to realize that it's usually a wild goose chase do figure out what's wrong form a distance.
If you wish, you can ship the razor to me, and after examination, I'll document the case with pictures. I'll also fix it if possible.


If you like to try fixing it yourself, I recommend a microscope to see what kind of damage is going on.

Kind regards,
Bart.
 
Smythe said:
emmanuel said:
My friend start from the beggining as a new from the manufacture razor.DMT 1200 until coticule.
You need a new edge.For my opignion the problem will be solved.If do let me know.
Best regards
Emmanuel
Click to expand...
Yes he could start over, but I suspect he’s done that a few times… but no harm in doing it again… I remember re-sharpening one problem razor 3 times before I got the edge just right.

But let me say this… There are quite a few things that must be perfect during the manufacturing process before a razor will produce a durable edge after honing… nothing is perfect, and even the best of brands, sometimes a few are produced that will hold a perfectly good edge… but not for very long. And the manufacturer/retailer would never know unless the razor has been used a number of times.

Also, even though you bought it from a respected member, an error can indeed occur (remember we are not all perfect). For example: if the razor was NOT in his rotation, and he shave-test one side of his face… he would not notice a razor with a factory flawed edge that does not last through the shave.
If it was IN his rotation, and it shaved him well, maybe your beard happens to be more resistant (we are all different).

Again the above assumes you know have “reasonably” good experience sharpening razors because you mentioned sharpening others razors with success.

You could also ask the seller if he used tape or paste or any special process to sharpen that razor.

As for the irritation, I suspect, if the edge looses keen after the first side of your face, then by the time you get to your chin it would most likely be pulling… so you get some irritation in that area.

Please keep us up to date on this one.
Click to expand...
Dear Smythe :
I agree with you Smythe many factors onstitutes a good edge
Ten years ago i bought a friodur razor not shave ready brand new.I set an adge direct on the coticule and i had only one decent shave.
I did it maybe 4 times ,unfortunately i got one shave per honing even the razor was passing easily hht.After that i desided to set an new edge from the beggining. I start with a Cretan oil sharpening stone because DMT was not existing, then another water stone estimate 4000 reaching to the coticule .With the coticule i have ceated a sharp egde using six months without honind .I get this razor until to day and is my favorite shaver.
You know sometimes we are unable to explain many things even a large experience exists.
I will give you an example.
I am the the third generation that they use straight razor.
MY gfather had never a honing stone. Only a loom strop one side a red paste and the other just leather.And two razors which i have them so far. He passed his life with them Is it possible accordind our knowledge ?Yes it is because i know it.
My father has a Cretan oil stone a vintage coticule and an escher and my gfather razors.
Me i have the heritage plus six cioticules ,a norton, a naniva, a kanayama, a dovo strop, some other strops , maybe 30 straights but i am not sure if i enjoy my shave as them.
Life is already coplccate do not do more.
Best regards
Emmanuel
 
Do you guys think I should take it back to the DMT 1200 followed by coticule with heavy slurry and then slow dilution?
 
I don't think it would hurt. I went through something very similar with a razor, I tried lots of solutions, different hones, tape...
But by the time I'd honed it 4 or 5 times, the problem seemed to resolve itself. I can't help but make the assumption that I simply needed to grind my way past the compromised steel at the very edge. Of course, this garnered it a bit of hone wear, but it was a necessary evil. You could always use tape on the spine to minimize it, if you go down that road.
 
jfdupuis said:
Do you guys think I should take it back to the DMT 1200 followed by coticule with heavy slurry and then slow dilution?
Click to expand...
Yes, you could try that... Put a bit if tape on the spine on the 1200, and not too much slurry on the Coticule.
 
OK another question I should have asked... or maybe i already asked...

The razor was NOS... but was it honed by the seller?... or are you the first to hone it?
 
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