ShavingUniverse.com

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

To all struggling Dilucotters

mrmaroon said:
Where would I acquire one of these bart? Just ask ardenees for a fast slurry stone? What layer is the fastest with slurry?
Drop me an e-mail with your address.

Best regards,
Bart.
 
How does a different slurry stone affect it? My Ardennes coticule is really slow although my small vintage coticule combo is pretty fast (if only it were bigger). Perhaps if I tried making slurry with the vintage on the Ardennes, the Ardennes would be faster? I only use dilucot for what it's worth.

(Somewhat tangentially, I've experimented a bit with using my coticule slurry stone on a translucent Arkansas stone I just got, but only with knives so far. Has anyone else done this?)
 
i should imagine rubbing a faster coticule stone on your coticule will release some faster garnets from your faster coticule rubbing stone or your vintage coticule. just try it and you will see.
 
garyhaywood said:
i should imagine rubbing a faster coticule stone on your coticule will release some faster garnets from your faster coticule rubbing stone or your vintage coticule. just try it and you will see.

I figured that, but I'm not really sure how that plays into the equation later on. Does it cause the garnets in the hone being used to be released more quickly (because of the slurry rubbing between the stone and the razor)? Something else? I guess we're probably all just hypothesizing here, but it's fun anyway.
 
some hones not many from what i have seen can relaese a slurry just by using razor.Most of us have to use a rubbing stone, to create a slurry. I have found slower cutting coticules can produce a keener edge much easier .Due to less slurry dulling. I remember my first two coti's one was slower and one was alittle quiker the quiker one gave me dull edges the slower one was much better.Then i used barts methods and things improved on both.
 
Ralfy...

Sung to: "I've Been working on the railroad"

I've Been brushing with my toothbrush,
Brushing everyday.
I've been Brushing with my toothbrush,
It's how I fight decay.
All my teeth are gonna sparkle,
How proud I will be.
Every time I want to smile, my
Teeth will Shine for me!
Always brush your teeth,
Every Single day.
Keep those cavities away!
Use your brush and paste,
Just the way you should,
Keep your smile a looking good!

:thumbup:
 
Well bart, I've got to give it to you buddy, you sure come up with some great ideas! I have succesfully completed 2 Dilocut razors! Now, I tried a third (old Robeson sure-edge) and couldn't copy the results. I went back and looked at the two that I did do it well on. They didn't have the same grind, steel, or blade width. I couldn't figure out why it was so easy on those two (radiumite and Romo). Finally it dawned on me, they both have really thin bevels! I did a test on the romo and honed it on a 1k norton until it passes the TNT. I then did 20 passes on a keen kutter barber hone (Much finer than a SWATY). Result? HHT passed easily. I finished the romo on a coticule for 75 laps and left the radiumite dilocoted. The shaves were in fact different. I see now why you say dilocot and unicot edges feel different.

My coticule is too slow to use doing 10 dilutions, so I did 2 sets of 20 on each side for 20 dilutions at a drop each. Maybe it should be reccomended to begining honers to use a razor with the smallest possible bevel. The bevel on my romo is about 1mm, maybe less. The radiumite is a little larger, but the blade is also warped a tiny bit.

Thanks man!
 
mrmaroon said:
Maybe it should be reccomended to begining honers to use a razor with the smallest possible bevel.

It is quite common for those who lack the skill and experience to successfully Dilocut a variety of different blade sizes and grinds etc, to find that a smaller bevel makes it easier to achieve the necessary keenness, as there is less steel to work, and the novice can be inclined to think that smaller is better, however the angle of the bevel is vital in producing a good shaving edge, to suggest that anyone who is learning to hone should try to keep a bevel small just to compensate for their lack of skill, would be very very bad advice indeed.
 
Has anyone tried wiping all slurry off the razor/hone @ the end? Thinking faster hones here--seems like the smallest bit of slurry on those might impact the final edge. Or not? I've tried both w/ my #1 & this seems to be better, but my coticule technique is very rusty, so my dilucot edges are a bit below par right now.
 
PA23-250 said:
Has anyone tried wiping all slurry off the razor/hone @ the end? Thinking faster hones here--seems like the smallest bit of slurry on those might impact the final edge. Or not? I've tried both w/ my #1 & this seems to be better, but my coticule technique is very rusty, so my dilucot edges are a bit below par right now.

You should always rinse the stone off before finishing on water, I always wipe the blade too as I believe those remaining garnets will stop the edge peaking out everytime.
 
I always rins then a real good rub and rinse . i also let the hone rest for two minutes then do alittle more hone by then all the garnets have settled and the hone is real smooth . Don't no if any one else has noticed that.
 
tat2Ralfy said:
mrmaroon said:
Maybe it should be reccomended to begining honers to use a razor with the smallest possible bevel.

It is quite common for those who lack the skill and experience to successfully Dilocut a variety of different blade sizes and grinds etc, to find that a smaller bevel makes it easier to achieve the necessary keenness, as there is less steel to work, and the novice can be inclined to think that smaller is better, however the angle of the bevel is vital in producing a good shaving edge, to suggest that anyone who is learning to hone should try to keep a bevel small just to compensate for their lack of skill, would be very very bad advice indeed.

A small bevel can be caused by a steep angle, but can also be caused by a thinner grind. Two parts of the triangle. The romo and radiumite were honed without any tape at all. I am not advocating beginners to tape the heck out of their razors to make it easier, just select the razor they own with the smallest "natural" bevel if having trouble.
 
garyhaywood said:
I always rins then a real good rub and rinse . i also let the hone rest for two minutes then do alittle more hone by then all the garnets have settled and the hone is real smooth . Don't no if any one else has noticed that.

Yea gary, I let it dry too. When it does I take a junk razor and run it across about 15 times dry to smooth out the freshly exposed ones. This could all be superstition, but I think it works :lol:
 
For those who care to know:

I took a digital kitchen scale today. Placed a Coticule on top and pressed the zero button. Next I took a razor (50g - 1.75 oz) and took it through the updated Dilucot. Pressure was the same during the entire procedure, except finishing with lightest possible pressure. The pressure remained in between 250g (8.8oz) and 300g (10.5oz).
Thought that might be of interest.:)

Kind regards,
Bart.
 
Sir Bart...where do you get it from...all those ideas and tips!

That would be quite valuable in determining the right pressure.

regards gents
 
Very much of interest! I'm being driven crazy by this wedge I can't get just right (doing more like 30 strokes/side due to the wide bevel, even w/ 2 layers of tape.) Thinking the feedback should be the same for both sides of the blade, yes? This thing seems to require very different finger positions to feel the same.

OT, but how much slurry dulling do Les Latneuses typically do? I still don't think I have the right slurry consistency sometimes. Tried thinner & bevels took forever to set; thick went fast, but I'm wondering if 10 dilutions is enough w/ that thickness. You'd think, given the speed on water, but then again...
 
I have honed two wedges only a couple of weeks ago and one just last week. they were both like butter knifes. The first one drove me mad. it took ages on my 600 mesh to set bevel. I started on four layers just incase the bevel became to big . I eventualy came down to two layers. The second one i finished on one layer . I finished with dilucot as normal and it was fine. I found the hardest part was setting the bevel.
 
Bart said:
For those who care to know:

I took a digital kitchen scale today. Placed a Coticule on top and pressed the zero button. Next I took a razor (50g - 1.75 oz) and took it through the updated Dilucot. Pressure was the same during the entire procedure, except finishing with lightest possible pressure. The pressure remained in between 250g (8.8oz) and 300g (10.5oz).
Thought that might be of interest.:)

Kind regards,
Bart.

Very interesting Sir Bart. I have been keeping tract of this for a while now and mine has been between 7.5oz and 10.5oz.

Grasshopper
 
rayman said:
Bart said:
For those who care to know:

I took a digital kitchen scale today. Placed a Coticule on top and pressed the zero button. Next I took a razor (50g - 1.75 oz) and took it through the updated Dilucot. Pressure was the same during the entire procedure, except finishing with lightest possible pressure. The pressure remained in between 250g (8.8oz) and 300g (10.5oz).
Thought that might be of interest.:)

Kind regards,
Bart.

Very interesting Sir Bart. I have been keeping tract of this for a while now and mine has been between 7.5oz and 10.5oz. My records show I run around 15oz to 17oz when setting a bevel on DMT's. And the final finishing pressures I use are between 1.5oz and 3-1/8oz.

Grasshopper
 
Back
Top